Hakone is the lung of the Kanto region, a mountainous escape where the air smells of sulfur and cedar. Located just an hour and a half from Tokyo, it is a volcanic wonderland of hot springs (onsen), mist-covered lakes, and, weather permitting, the shy giant: Mount Fuji. Hakone is not a single city but a collection of towns scattered across a collapsed volcanic caldera. It is a place designed for one thing: aggressive relaxation.
The rhythm of Hakone is dictated by the Ryokan (traditional inn). You arrive, you strip down, you soak in mineral-rich waters until your bones feel like jelly, and then you eat an elaborate Kaiseki meal in your cotton yukata robe. The landscape is dramatic—steam vents hiss from the barren earth at Owakudani, looking like a scene from Mars, while pirate ships (yes, really) cruise across the calm, dark waters of Lake Ashi.
While it can be touristy, especially on weekends, the luxury of Hakone lies in its art and its quiet corners. The Open-Air Museum mixes Picasso with the forest, creating a surreal gallery experience. To truly enjoy Hakone, you must embrace the ‘Hakone Loop,’ a journey involving a train, a cable car, a ropeway, a boat, and a bus. It’s a transport nerd’s dream and the best way to see the diverse geography of the region. But the real goal? Catching that fleeting, perfect reflection of Fuji-san on the lake at dawn.
The perfect plan for Hakone:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Loop & The Volcano
- Morning: Arrive at Hakone-Yumoto. Take the switchback train to Gora, then the Cable Car, then the Ropeway to Owakudani. Smell the sulfur. Eat a ‘Black Egg’ (boiled in sulfur water)—legend says it adds 7 years to your life.
- Afternoon: Ropeway down to Lake Ashi. Take the Pirate Ship cruise to Moto-Hakone. Walk to the Hakone Shrine and its famous Torii gate standing in the water. Queue for the photo.
- Evening: Check into your Ryokan. Kaiseki Dinner and soak in the onsen. Do nothing else.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Art & Nature
- Morning: Hakone Open-Air Museum. Wander through the sculpture garden. Dip your feet in the foot bath. See the Picasso pavilion.
- Afternoon: Lunch at Gora Brewery & Grill (Nobu vibes). Then, visit the Pola Museum of Art—stunning glass architecture hidden in the beech forest.
- Evening: Return to Tokyo or enjoy a second night of Ryokan luxury. If staying, try a private onsen session.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Old Road & Teahouse (Optional Day 3)
- Morning: Walk a preserved section of the Old Tokaido Road (Cedar Avenue). Feel the history under your feet.
- Afternoon: Amazake-chaya. A 400-year-old teahouse. Drink the warm, sweet fermented rice drink (amazake) and eat mochi by the sunken hearth.
- Evening: Bus back to Yumoto. Shop for marquetry (wood craft) souvenirs before the train home.
Weather
Spring (March-May): Cherry blossoms and azaleas. Beautiful but hazy views of Fuji.
Summer (June-Aug): Cooler than Tokyo, but Fuji is usually hidden by clouds. Hydrangeas (Ajisai) bloom in June—stunning.
Autumn (Oct-Nov): The best time. Red leaves, crisp air, higher chance of seeing Fuji.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Cold, but the clearest skies for Fuji views. Soaking in an outdoor onsen while it snows is peak living.
Local Customs
- Onsen Rules: No tattoos allowed in most public baths (cover them or book a private room). Wash first. Tie up long hair.
- Transport: The loop takes longer than you think. Start early (9 AM).
- Dinner Time: In Ryokans, dinner is at 6 or 7 PM sharp. Don’t be late. Restaurants outside close early (around 5-6 PM).
History & Culture
Hakone was the most difficult checkpoint on the Old Tokaido Road connecting Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo). Travelers had to present passes and be inspected, specifically to prevent ‘incoming guns and outgoing women’ (hostages of the Shogun trying to escape). This history of hospitality and transit paved the way for it to become Japan’s premier resort town.
Getting Around & Safety
The Hakone Freepass is non-negotiable. It covers the train from Shinjuku and all local transport (ropeway, boat, bus, train). It saves money and hassle.
- Romancecar: Pay the extra surcharge for the ‘Romancecar’ express train from Shinjuku for a reserved seat and a view.
Info for Nomads
Not a nomad hub. Wi-Fi in old Ryokans can be spotty. It’s a place to disconnect.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Variable. 30-80 Mbps.
Cafes: Timuny. (near Yumoto station, good for a quick email) and Naraya Cafe (Miyanoshita, footbath + coffee).
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I see Mt. Fuji? +
It’s a gamble. Winter gives the best odds. In summer, it’s often hazy. Early morning is your best bet; clouds usually roll in by noon.
Is the Freepass worth it? +
Yes, 100%. Even for a round trip from Tokyo and doing the loop once, it pays for itself.
I have tattoos. Can I use the onsen? +
Publicly, usually no. Look for ‘Tattoo Friendly’ onsen or book a Ryokan with a ‘kashikiri’ (private rental) bath or a room with an in-room bath.