Takayama (Hida-Takayama) feels like a town preserved in amber. Tucked high in the Japanese Alps, its isolation allowed it to develop a unique culture of carpentry and craftsmanship that rivals the imperial capitals. The air here is crisp, smelling of cedar wood and charcoal smoke. In winter, the snow piles meters high, turning the black wooden buildings into a monochrome ink wash painting.
The heart of the town is the Sanmachi Suji district, a grid of merchant streets that look exactly as they did in the Edo period. But unlike a movie set, this is a working town. Under the eaves of the sake breweries, you’ll see large cedar balls (sugidama)—when they are green, the new sake is ready; when brown, it has matured. The day starts early here with the Morning Markets (Asaichi), where local grandmothers sell crisp apples, pickles, and the strange, delicious ‘Sarubobo’ dolls (faceless red amulets for safe childbirth).
But the real reason people make the trek is the Hida Beef. It is arguably better than Kobe beef—more marbling, richer flavor, and it melts on your tongue like butter. You will eat it as sushi, on skewers, in croquettes, and grilled over magnolia leaves (Hoba Miso). Takayama is rustic, honest, and undeniably atmospheric.
The perfect plan for Takayama:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Old Town & Sake
- Morning: Miyagawa Morning Market. Walk along the river. Buy a coffee in an edible cookie cup. Buy an apple. Chat with the locals.
- Afternoon: Sanmachi Suji. The old town. Stop at Funasaka Sake Brewery for a tasting (¥100 per shot). Eat Hida Beef Sushi on a cracker from a street stall—the line moves fast.
- Evening: Dinner at Heianraku. It’s a small family-run place famous among travelers for its hospitality and vegetarian options (rare in Japan).
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Heritage & Floats
- Morning: Takayama Jinya. The only surviving government outpost from the Edo period. It’s a massive complex of tatami rooms and interrogation pits.
- Afternoon: Float Exhibition Hall (Yatai Kaikan). See the massive, ornate festival floats if you aren’t there during the festival. They are masterpieces of wood carving. Lunch: Takayama Ramen (soy sauce base, curly noodles).
- Evening: Hida Beef Yakiniku. Go to Maruaki. It’s a butcher shop with a restaurant. Order the A5 platter. It will ruin other steaks for you forever.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Village Life (Short Trip)
- Morning: Take the bus (10 min) to Hida Folk Village (Hida no Sato). It’s an open-air museum with traditional thatched-roof houses (gassho-zukuri) relocated here. It’s like Shirakawa-go but without the crushing crowds.
- Afternoon: Return to town. Visit the Yoshijima Heritage House. The architecture and use of light are stunning.
- Evening: Train out or bus to Shirakawa-go for an overnight stay.
Weather
Spring (April-May): The Takayama Festival (April 14-15) is one of Japan’s most beautiful. Cherry blossoms + elaborate floats (15°C).
Summer (June-Aug): Cooler than the cities, but still warm. Hiking season in the Alps (28°C).
Autumn (Oct-Nov): The Autumn Festival (Oct 9-10). Brilliant foliage (14°C).
Winter (Dec-Feb): Heavy snow. Brutally cold but cozy. Sake tasting season (-3°C).
Local Customs
- Shoes: You will be taking your shoes off constantly in the old houses. Wear nice socks.
- Morning Markets: They close by noon. Go early (8 AM) for the best produce.
- Trash: There are almost no trash cans. Carry a plastic bag to take your trash back to the hotel.
History & Culture
Takayama was under the direct control of the Shogun because of its timber resources and skilled carpenters. These carpenters were so famous they built many of the temples in Kyoto. The town’s wealth came from this wood and trade, preserved today in the magnificent merchant houses (Yoshijima House).
Getting Around & Safety
Takayama is tiny. You can walk everywhere.
- Bus: The Sarubobo Bus loops the main sites.
- Train: The ‘Wide View Hida’ train ride to get here is scenic, winding through ravines and rivers.
- Alps: To go to Shirakawa-go or Kamikochi, you need to take a Nohi Bus from the station. Book in advance.
Info for Nomads
Too small for long-term stays. Internet is fine, but the town sleeps early (8 PM).
Workation Vibe
Speed: Okay. 50-70 Mbps.
Cafes: Cafe Ao (serene, beautiful view) and Bagpipe (retro vibes, featured in anime).
Frequently Asked Questions
Shirakawa-go or Hida Folk Village? +
Shirakawa-go is the UNESCO site and is huge, but overrun with tourists. Hida Folk Village is a museum in Takayama, quieter, and offers a similar visual experience if you are short on time.
What is Hoba Miso? +
A local dish where miso paste, green onions, and mushrooms (and often beef) are grilled on a dry magnolia leaf over a small clay stove. It’s savory, salty, and perfect with rice.
Can I use credit cards? +
In the main shops, yes. In the morning market and small stalls? Cash only. Bring plenty of coins.