Sukhothai translates to ‘Dawn of Happiness,’ and it is hard to argue with the name when you are cycling through the Historical Park at sunrise. As the first capital of Siam (13th century), this is where Thai art, language, and architecture were born. Unlike Ayutthaya, which is integrated into a noisy modern city, Old Sukhothai is set apart—a vast, tranquil park of lotus ponds, manicured lawns, and elegant ruins.
The aesthetic here is different. The Buddhas are sinuous and graceful, with flame-like halos, representing the peak of Thai artistic expression. The park is zoned, making it incredibly easy to navigate by bicycle. There is a profound stillness here. You don’t have the tuk-tuk mafia or the traffic jams. You have bird song, the soft crunch of gravel under bike tires, and the reflection of ancient chedis in the water.
Sukhothai is for the traveler who wants to slow down. It is not about checking boxes; it is about finding a spot under a tree near Wat Mahathat and reading a book while the history of a civilization sits silently in front of you. The food is simple but famous—Sukhothai Noodles, a slightly sweet, lime-infused pork noodle soup topped with long beans and ground peanuts.
The perfect plan for Sukhothai:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Central Zone
- Morning: Wat Mahathat. The spiritual center. Arrive at 6:00 AM for sunrise. The sun rising behind the seated Buddhas is spiritual.
- Afternoon: Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. Essential to understand what you are looking at. Then, lunch: Sukhothai Noodles at a street stall (look for ‘Kuay Tiew Sukhothai’).
- Evening: Wat Sa Si. A temple on an island in the lotus pond. Watch the sunset here. The reflection is perfect.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Speaking Buddha
- Morning: Wat Si Chum (North Zone). Home of the massive seated Buddha (Phra Achana) squeezed inside a square enclosure. Its hand, covered in gold leaf, is iconic. Legend says kings hid behind it to ‘speak’ to troops to boost morale.
- Afternoon: Wat Saphan Hin (West Zone). A hike up a stone hill. The view over the valley is sweeping. It’s deserted.
- Evening: Saturday Night Walking Street. If lucky to be there on Saturday, the market near the park is vibrant with food and crafts.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: The Sister City (Si Satchanalai)
- Morning: Take a bus/tour (1 hour) to Si Satchanalai Historical Park. It is wilder, more forested, and has almost zero tourists compared to Sukhothai.
- Afternoon: Cycle the forest trails between ruins. It feels like Indiana Jones.
- Evening: Return to New Sukhothai for a pizza or local food market dinner.
Weather
Cool Season (Nov-Jan): Pleasant (25°C). The best time for cycling.
Hot Season (Feb-April): Very hot. The park offers little shade in midday.
Rainy Season (May-Oct): lush, fewer tourists. The ruins reflect beautifully in the puddles.
Local Customs
- Biking: Bikes are allowed everywhere in the central zone. Lock them when exploring on foot.
- Sun Protection: You are exposed. Hat and sunscreen are vital.
- Respect: The ‘Walking Buddha’ statues are unique to this era. Admire them from the front, not just for selfies.
History & Culture
Established in 1238, Sukhothai was the first independent Thai Kingdom, breaking away from the Khmer Empire. King Ramkhamhaeng the Great is credited with creating the Thai alphabet here. It was a golden era of benevolence and Buddhism before power shifted south to Ayutthaya.
Getting Around & Safety
Bicycle is the only way. Rentals are 30฿ at the park entrance.
- Tram: Electric trams run for those who can’t cycle.
- Bus to New City: The ‘Songthaew’ connects Old Sukhothai (Ruins) with New Sukhothai (Hotels/Bus Station) for 30฿. They are 12km apart.
Info for Nomads
Very quiet. Internet is fine, but it’s a place to disconnect and write, not to network.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Okay. 40-60 Mbps.
Cafes: Rush Lush (Old City, bean bags) and 379 Drip (New City, garden vibes).
Frequently Asked Questions
Stay in Old or New City? +
Old City: Stay here for atmosphere and easy access to ruins (walking distance). New City: Stay here for better food, markets, and cheaper hotels, but you need to commute 20 mins to ruins.
Ayutthaya or Sukhothai? +
Sukhothai is better preserved, prettier, and more peaceful. Ayutthaya is grander but more chaotic.
How do I get there? +
Fly Bangkok Airways (expensive) or take the train to Phitsanulok and then a 1-hour bus. Or a direct bus from Bangkok (7 hours).