The Hague (Den Haag) is the royal sibling of the Dutch cities. It is the seat of government, the home of the King, and the center of international law, yet it is not the capital. This distinction gives it a strange, dignified air. The streets are wider, the mansions are grander, and the people are better dressed. You will see diplomats biking in three-piece suits and embassies occupying 18th-century palaces along the Lange Voorhout.
But The Hague has a split personality. Just 15 minutes by tram from the Binnenhof (Parliament) lies Scheveningen, a massive beach resort that feels like a Dutch Atlantic City. The pier, the ferris wheel, and the smell of salty fried fish offer a working-class contrast to the Vermeer paintings in the city center. It is the only big Dutch city on the sea, and the dunes (Meijendel) offer wild, sandy escapes.
Culturally, it punches above its weight. The Mauritshuis is a jewelry box of a museum, home to the *Girl with a Pearl Earring*. The Peace Palace looks like something out of a fairy tale, despite dealing with the heavy reality of war crimes. The Hague is sophisticated, international, and surprisingly green, but it can feel a bit sleepy after 6 PM compared to Rotterdam or Amsterdam.
The perfect plan for The Hague:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Royals & Masters
- Morning: Binnenhof. Walk through the inner court of the parliament. It’s the oldest parliament building still in use in the world. (Note: Currently under massive renovation, check access).
- Afternoon: Mauritshuis. See Vermeer’s *Girl with a Pearl Earring* and *View of Delft*. It’s a small museum, quality over quantity. Lunch at ‘t Goude Hooft, the oldest inn in the city.
- Evening: Drinks at Plein or Grote Markt. The Grote Markt is more alternative/fun; Plein is more suits/politics.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Sea
- Morning: Panorama Mesdag. A mind-bending 360-degree painting from 1881. It creates a perfect illusion of looking at the beach.
- Afternoon: Tram to Scheveningen. Walk the Pier. Eat Kibbeling (fried cod chunks) from a stall like Simonis. If you hate crowds, walk north to the Black Padre sculpture.
- Evening: Dinner at a beach club (Strandtent). Hart Beach is a surf spot with good food and fire pits. Watch the sun set over the North Sea.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Peace & Pottery
- Morning: Peace Palace (Vredespaleis). You usually can’t go inside without a tour booked months ago, but the Visitor Center is free and the exterior is stunning.
- Afternoon: Escher in The Palace. A museum dedicated to M.C. Escher’s optical illusions, housed in a former royal palace. The chandeliers are shaped like skulls and sharks.
- Evening: Indonesian Rice Table (Rijsttafel). The Hague has the best Indo food in the West. Try Garuda or Keraton Damai.
Weather
Spring (April-May): The dunes are beautiful. King’s Night (April 26) is huge here.
Summer (June-Aug): Scheveningen beach is packed. Beach bars (strandtenten) are the place to be.
Autumn (Sept-Nov): Good for museums.
Winter (Dec-Feb): The New Year’s Dive (Nieuwjaarsduik) is iconic—thousands run into the freezing sea.
Local Customs
- Escalators: Stand on the right, walk on the left.
- Herring: Eat it the Dutch way: hold it by the tail, tilt your head back, and lower it in. Onions are mandatory.
- Bike Lanes: In the dunes, watch out for racing cyclists. They go fast.
History & Culture
The Hague started as a hunting lodge for the Counts of Holland (hence the name ‘Des Graven Hage’ – The Count’s Hedge). It became the center of politics in the 16th century but was never granted ‘city rights’ in medieval times, which is why it lacks a traditional walled center. It has always been a village that grew into a seat of power.
Getting Around & Safety
HTM Trams are excellent. The ‘RandstadRail’ connects to Rotterdam.
- Tram 1: The scenic route from Delft to Scheveningen Beach.
- Biking: The ride through the dunes to Wassenaar is spectacular.
Info for Nomads
A bit corporate, but very comfortable. High quality of life, close to the beach.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Fast. 100+ Mbps.
Cafes: Bookstor (Noordeinde, very cozy) and Lola Bikes & Coffee.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Scheveningen touristy? +
Yes, incredibly. For a quieter experience, go to Zuiderstrand (South Beach) or Kijkduin.
Why is there so much Indonesian food? +
The Hague is known as the ‘Widow of the Indies.’ Many Dutch-Indonesians settled here after Indonesia gained independence. The Rijsttafel (Rice Table) is a must-do culinary experience.
Can I enter the Peace Palace? +
Rarely. It is a working court. You can visit the gardens on specific tours or the visitor center anytime.