Leiden (Lejda) is the intellectual engine of the Golden Age. It is the birthplace of Rembrandt, the home of the oldest university in the Netherlands (1575), and the place where the Pilgrims lived before sailing to America. The city is a dense web of canals—second only to Amsterdam in water volume—lined with 17th-century brick buildings that lean precariously over the water.
But Leiden is not just looking backward. It is a ‘City of Discoveries.’ The street art here is highbrow: the ‘Wall Poems’ project has painted over 100 poems in different languages (Shakespeare, Rumi, Yeats) onto the sides of buildings. You can walk the city reading poetry. It is also a city of science, home to the Hortus Botanicus where the first tulips in Holland were planted, and excellent museums like Naturalis (biodiversity) and Boerhaave (medicine).
The student population dominates the vibe. The fraternities occupy the best canal houses, and the bars are full of young people debating over cheap beer (or craft brews). Leiden feels authentic. It’s a working city, a thinking city, and arguably the prettiest city in South Holland. The 3rd of October is the massive local festival celebrating the end of the Spanish siege—expect herring, white bread, and chaos.
The perfect plan for Leiden:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Rembrandt & Roots
- Morning: Hortus Botanicus. The oldest botanical garden in NL. See the Victoria Amazonica water lilies. It’s an oasis.
- Afternoon: Young Rembrandt Studio. A small experience in the house where he learned to paint. Then walk the Rembrandt Route through the city. Lunch at Waag (the old weigh house).
- Evening: De Burcht. A medieval citadel on an artificial hill in the center. Climb it for the sunset view over the rooftops. Dinner at a canal-side bistro.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Pilgrims & Poetry
- Morning: American Pilgrim Museum. See how the Pilgrims lived before the Mayflower. Visit the Pieterskerk where their leader John Robinson is buried.
- Afternoon: Wall Poem Walk. Get a map from the tourist office. Hunt for the poems. Stop at Rijksmuseum Boerhaave (European Museum of the Year) to see Einstein’s pen and Leeuwenhoek’s microscopes.
- Evening: Drink at De Bonte Koe. An authentic ‘brown bar’ lined with tiles. Order a Jenever (Dutch gin).
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Mummies & Windmills
- Morning: Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (Antiquities). They have an actual Egyptian temple inside the entrance hall. World-class collection.
- Afternoon: Molen de Valk. A massive windmill that is also a museum. You can climb to the outer deck for views.
- Evening: Dinner on a Restaurant Boat. Several boats are permanently moored and serve pancakes or French cuisine.
Weather
Spring (April-May): The Hortus Botanicus is in bloom. Tulips everywhere.
Summer (June-Aug): Boat parades. The canals are full of sloops (open boats).
Autumn (Sept-Nov): October 3rd is THE festival. Avoid if you hate crowds, go if you want a party.
Winter (Dec-Feb): The floating Christmas market on the canal is unique.
Local Customs
- Boat Rules: If renting a boat, stay to the right. Don’t play loud music in residential canals.
- Walking Poems: Look up. The poems are often high on walls.
- October 3rd: If you visit on this day, the entire city is shut down for the party. Hotels are booked years in advance.
History & Culture
Leiden’s university was a gift from William of Orange as a reward for the city’s heroic resistance against the Spanish in 1574. During the siege, the city was starving; when the Spanish fled, the locals found a pot of stew (Hutspot) left behind, which is still eaten today. It became the center of Protestant theology and science in Europe.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking is the only way. The center is pedestrian-friendly.
- Train: 10 mins to The Hague, 30 to Amsterdam.
- Boat: Renting a ‘sloep’ (electric boat) is the quintessential Leiden experience.
Info for Nomads
Very academic atmosphere. Excellent libraries and cafes.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Fast. 100 Mbps.
Cafes: Lot en de Walvis (by the harbor, great vibe) and Coffee & Jazz.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it suitable for kids? +
Yes! Naturalis (biodiversity center) is one of the best dinosaur/nature museums in Europe. T-Rex skeletons and interactive displays.
How do I see the poems? +
They are painted on the facades. There are over 100. Download the ‘Leiden muurgedichten’ map or just wander.
Rembrandt or Vermeer? +
Leiden is Rembrandt (Dark, dramatic). Delft is Vermeer (Light, domestic). Rembrandt was born here but moved to Amsterdam for money.