Maastricht does not feel like the Netherlands. It feels like a lost province of France or Belgium. Located in the southernmost tip of the country, sandwiched between borders, the culture here is ‘Burgundian’—meaning life revolves around good food, wine, and leisure. The people dress better, the lunch breaks are longer, and the landscape actually has hills.
The city is split by the Maas river. On one side, the cobbled, Roman-era Wyck district with its boutiques; on the other, the Vrijthof square and the labyrinthine Stokstraat quarter. Maastricht is old—one of the oldest cities in NL. You see it in the Roman excavations, the medieval city walls (Helpoort), and the basilicas filled with treasure. But the icon of modern Maastricht is the Boekhandel Dominicanen, a 700-year-old Gothic church converted into a bookstore. It is breathtaking.
Maastricht is where the Dutch go to feel like they are on vacation abroad. It’s a city of Andre Rieu (the waltz king lives here), limestone caves, and ‘Vlaai’ (fruit pie) which must be eaten daily. The vibe is catholic, carnival-loving, and sophisticated.
The perfect plan for Maastricht:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Good Life
- Morning: Boekhandel Dominicanen. The bookstore in the church. Go at opening (9 or 10 AM) to get a coffee on the altar without the crowds. It is stunning.
- Afternoon: Stokstraat Quarter. Window shop the luxury brands. Walk through the Onze Lieve Vrouwebasiliek (Star of the Sea). It’s dark, candlelit, and ancient. Lunch: Café Sjiek (local institution, try the ‘Zoervleis’ – sour beef stew).
- Evening: Vrijthof Square. Drink a Brand beer (local brew) on a terrace. Watch the people.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Underground & Overground
- Morning: St. Pietersberg Caves (North). Take a guided tour into the limestone tunnels. See the charcoal drawings from centuries of hiding. During WWII, the Night Watch was hidden here.
- Afternoon: Hike over the top of the hill to Fort St. Pieter. Great views. Walk down to Bisschopsmolen (water mill) to eat fresh cherry Vlaai.
- Evening: Cross the bridge to Wyck. Trendy, hipster dining. Harry’s is great for brasserie style.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Walls & Towers
- Morning: Walk the City Walls (Helpoort). The oldest city gate in NL. Walk through the park (Stadspark) along the river.
- Afternoon: Bonnefanten Museum. The rocket-shaped building by the river. Old masters and contemporary art.
- Evening: A fancy dinner at Château Neercanne (outside the city, balconied terrace) if budget permits, or back to the Vrijthof.
Weather
Spring (April-May): TEFAF art fair (March) brings billionaires and jets. Easter is nice.
Summer (June-Aug): Andre Rieu concerts on the Vrijthof. lively.
Autumn (Sept-Nov): The hills turn gold. Hiking season.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Magical. The ‘Magical Maastricht’ Christmas market on the Vrijthof is the most romantic in the country.
Local Customs
- Carnival: In Feb/March, the city goes insane for 3 days. Costumes are mandatory. If you aren’t participating, stay away.
- Greeting: People are softer and more polite here than in Amsterdam. Say ‘Hoi’ or ‘Bonjour’.
- Vlaai: Do not call it cake. It is Vlaai. It is a yeast dough base, not pastry.
History & Culture
Started as a Roman settlement (Mosa Trajectum). Because of its strategic location, it was besieged repeatedly by Spanish, French, and Dutch armies, earning it the nickname ‘The Iron Lady’ for its fortifications. The Maastricht Treaty (1992) was signed here, creating the European Union and the Euro currency.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking is best. The center is pedestrianized.
- Bus: Necessary to get to St. Pietersberg (Caves/Hill).
- Train: 2.5 hours from Amsterdam. Closer to Brussels/Cologne.
Info for Nomads
Very pleasant, but slower pace. High cost of living.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Good. 80 Mbps.
Cafes: Fixed Gear Coffee (cycling theme) and Alley Cat Bikes & Coffee.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it like Amsterdam? +
Not at all. It is Catholic, hilly, stone-built (not brick), and feels much more Southern European.
What is Zoervleis? +
Local stew. Horse meat (traditionally) or beef marinated in vinegar and spices, served with fries and apple sauce. It’s sweet and sour.
Can I visit Belgium/Germany? +
Yes. You can literally walk to the Belgian border. Aachen (Germany) and Liège (Belgium) are 30 mins by bus/train.