Gwangju is the soul of Korean democracy and the kitchen of the south. This city carries a heavy weight; the 1980 Gwangju Uprising (May 18) against the military dictatorship started here, an event that eventually led to Korea’s democratization. You feel this rebellious, intellectual spirit in the air. The 5.18 National Cemetery is not just a graveyard; it is a pilgrimage site for anyone who values freedom.
But Gwangju is also about pleasure, specifically the pleasure of eating. It is the capital of the Jeolla province, universally acknowledged as having the best food in Korea. The side dishes (banchan) here are more numerous, the kimchi is funkier (more fermented fish sauce), and the flavors are deeper. A simple set meal (Baekban) will cover your entire table with plates.
Culturally, Gwangju punches above its weight with the Gwangju Biennale (contemporary art) and the massive Asia Culture Center. It is a city of artists, activists, and gourmands. It feels slightly rougher than Seoul, more passionate, and deeply proud of its identity.
The perfect plan for Gwangju:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Democracy & Memory
- Morning: 5.18 National Cemetery. Walk through the Gate of Democracy. The scale of the graves is moving. Hear the song ‘March for the Beloved’ playing.
- Afternoon: 5.18 Archives (Catholic Center). See the bullet holes in the Jeonil Building 245. Lunch: Tteok-galbi (grilled short rib patties) in Songjeong.
- Evening: Asia Culture Center (ACC). A massive underground arts complex. The park on top is a great hangout.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Art & Mountains
- Morning: Mudeungsan National Park. Take the bus to the base. Hike up to see the columnar joints (rock formations). Or just visit Jeungsimsa Temple at the bottom.
- Afternoon: Penguin Village. A retro art village filled with junk art and 70s/80s nostalgia. Very photogenic.
- Evening: Mudeungsan Barley Rice (Boribap) Street. Eat a healthy bowl of barley rice mixed with mountain herbs.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: The Market & Snacks
- Morning: Yangdong Market. One of the biggest traditional markets. Look for ‘Hongeo’ (fermented skate)—it smells like ammonia. Try it if you dare.
- Afternoon: Gwangju Biennale Hall (if open) or the Folk Museum.
- Evening: 1913 Songjeong Station Market. A revitalized retro market. Hip neon signs. Eat Sangchu-twigim. *Hack:* It’s not fried lettuce. It’s fried squid/vegetables wrapped IN lettuce with onion soy sauce. Delicious.
Weather
Spring (April-May): Poignant. May is the memorial month. Weather is mild.
Summer (June-Aug): Very hot. Good for escaping to Mudeungsan mountain.
Autumn (Sept-Nov): The Biennale is usually held now (even years). Food festivals abound.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Chilly, occasional snow.
Local Customs
- May 18 Respect: If visiting the cemetery or archives, be respectful. This is recent, painful history for many locals.
- Food: Do not judge the smell of the Kimchi. Jeolla kimchi uses strong salted seafood (jeotgal). It tastes amazing.
History & Culture
The May 18th Democratic Uprising (1980) defines the city. Paratroopers opened fire on student protesters, killing hundreds. The citizens fought back, holding the city for days. This trauma and heroism shaped Gwangju’s identity as the ‘City of Light’ and justice.
Getting Around & Safety
Bus and Subway (1 line). The subway is limited.
- Taxi: Cheap and often the best way to get to specific restaurants.
- KTX: Gwangju-Songjeong Station is the hub (not Gwangju Station).
Info for Nomads
Quiet and artistic. Cost of living is low. Good for creative work.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Fast. 100 Mbps.
Cafes: Lounge OIC (tropical vibe) and Horang Gasinamu (historic brick house).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe? +
Yes, incredibly safe. The ‘rebellious’ history is political, not criminal. People are very welcoming.
What is the must-eat dish? +
Ori-tang (Duck Stew). Gwangju has a whole street dedicated to it. It’s thick, creamy (from perilla seeds), and served with water parsley (minari).
Why are there penguins? +
In Penguin Village, the name comes from the way the elderly residents walked (waddling like penguins) due to knee pain. The art project was created to revitalize their neighborhood.