Suwon is the city that almost became the capital. Dominated by the massive, UNESCO-listed Hwaseong Fortress, it feels like a historic K-Drama set brought to life. The fortress walls snake around the city center for nearly 6km, offering a walkable loop that passes through floodgates, command posts, and secret entrances. At night, the walls are lit up, creating a glowing dragon spine against the dark sky.
But Suwon is not just a museum. It is a bustling satellite of Seoul (accessible by subway) with a distinct identity. It is famous for Suwon Galbi (massive beef ribs) and a quirky obsession with fried chicken—there is an entire street dedicated to it. The juxtaposition of the 18th-century walls with the neon signs of modern karaoke bars and markets is quintessential Korea.
The vibe here is royal yet relaxed. You can try your hand at traditional archery at the fortress, ride the ‘Flying Suwon’ helium balloon for aerial views, or explore the temporary palace (Haenggung) where kings stayed. It offers all the history of Seoul’s palaces but with more breathing room and better walls.
The perfect plan for Suwon:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Fortress Loop
- Morning: Start at Paldalmun Gate. Hike up the steep stairs to Seojangdae (Command Post) for the best view of the city. Walk along the wall to Hwaseomun.
- Afternoon: Lunch: Yeonpo Galbi near Hwahongmun. Order the lunch special if on a budget. Then visit Hwaseong Haenggung (Temporary Palace).
- Evening: Flying Suwon. Ride the tethered helium balloon for a sunset view (weather permitting). See the walls light up.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Chicken & Streams
- Morning: Walk the Suwoncheon stream that flows through the fortress. See the Hwahongmun water gate. It’s picturesque.
- Afternoon: Visit the Samsung Innovation Museum (if tech interests you—Samsung HQ is in Suwon). Or exploring the hip cafes in Haengnidan-gil.
- Evening: Suwon Chicken Street. Go to Jinmi Tongdak or Yongseong Tongdak. Order half-fried, half-seasoned. They serve chicken gizzards as a free appetizer.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Folk Village (Nearby)
- Morning: Take a bus to the Korean Folk Village (Yongin). It’s nearby. It’s a living museum with actors, performances, and traditional houses. Much better than the ones in Seoul.
- Afternoon: Watch the equestrian martial arts show.
- Evening: Return to Suwon. Dinner at a market or head back to Seoul.
Weather
Spring (April-May): Cherry blossoms along the fortress walls.
Summer (June-Aug): Hot. Walking the wall with no shade is tough.
Autumn (Sept-Nov): The Cultural Festival (Oct) is huge. Reenactment of the Royal Parade.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Windy on the walls, but the snow scenes are beautiful.
Local Customs
- Walking the Wall: It’s a 5.7km loop. It involves stairs. Wear sneakers.
- Galbi Price: Suwon Galbi is premium beef. Expect to pay 40,000₩+ per person. It’s worth it.
History & Culture
King Jeongjo built Hwaseong Fortress in the late 18th century to honor his father, Prince Sado (who was tragically executed by being locked in a rice chest). He planned to move the capital here, employing modern science and cranes (designed by scholar Dasan Jeong Yak-yong) to build the walls. The king’s sudden death stopped the move, leaving Suwon as a majestic ‘what if’.
Getting Around & Safety
Accessible via Seoul Subway Line 1 or the Suin-Bundang Line. Also KTX to Suwon Station.
- Trolley: The ‘Hwaseong Fortress Tourist Trolley’ is a dragon-shaped train that loops the main sights.
- Walking: The area inside the walls is very walkable.
Info for Nomads
Good alternative to Seoul. Cheaper rent, but close enough to the capital for meetings.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Fast. 100 Mbps.
Cafes: Jung Ji Young Coffee Roasters (rooftop view of the fortress wall).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it just a day trip? +
Most people do it as a day trip from Seoul (it takes 1 hour). But staying one night allows you to see the fortress lit up, which is the highlight.
What is the difference between Suwon Galbi and regular BBQ? +
Suwon Galbi uses massive ribs (Wang-Galbi). They are marinated in salt and sugar (not soy sauce) to preserve the meat color. The portions are huge.
Why so much fried chicken? +
The movie ‘Extreme Job’ (about undercover cops running a chicken shop) popularized ‘Suwon Wang Galbi Chicken’. Now, the street is booming with tourists trying the marinade.