Jeonju is the belly button of Korea’s food culture. It is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy and the spiritual home of Bibimbap. The city centers around the Hanok Village, a cluster of over 700 traditional wooden houses with curved tile roofs. Yes, it is touristy. Yes, you will see thousands of people wearing rented Hanbok (traditional dress) taking selfies. But strip away the commercialism, and the charm is undeniable.
Jeonju is slower. It invites you to wander down stone-walled alleys, sleep on the floor of a Hanok guesthouse (ondol heating warming your back), and drink cloudy rice wine (Makgeolli) from a battered kettle. The food here is not just sustenance; it is art. Even a simple bean sprout soup (Kongnamul Gukbap) is treated with reverence.
Beyond the village, the city has a funky, artistic side. The Jaman Mural Village offers colorful street art, and the Nambu Market at night transforms into a youth hub. Jeonju is a place to loosen your belt and eat until you can’t walk.
The perfect plan for Jeonju:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Hanok Experience
- Morning: Gyeonggijeon Shrine. See the portrait of King Taejo. The bamboo forest inside is a famous photo spot.
- Afternoon: Jeonju Bibimbap. Go to Gajok Hoegwan or Hanguk Jip. The brass bowl will be scorching hot. Mix it quickly. Snack: Gilgeoriya (Baguette burger).
- Evening: Omokdae. Hike up the small hill for the sunset view over the hundreds of tiled roofs. Sleep in a Hanok guesthouse.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Markets & Makgeolli
- Morning: Nambu Market. Eat Kongnamul Gukbap (Bean Sprout Soup) at Hyundaiok inside the market. It comes with a poached egg.
- Afternoon: Jeondong Catholic Cathedral. A red brick Byzantine-Romanesque church built on the site of Catholic martyrdom. Beautiful contrast to the Hanoks. Visit PNB Bakery for Choco Pies.
- Evening: Makgeolli Alley (Samcheon-dong). This is essential. You order a kettle of Makgeolli, and the food comes for free. The more you drink, the better the food gets (crabs, pancakes, soups).
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Art & Lotus
- Morning: Jaman Mural Village. Across the bridge from the Hanok village. steep walk, colorful murals (Totoro, Spirited Away).
- Afternoon: Deokjin Park. Famous for its massive lotus pond. In July, the lotus flowers are in full bloom.
- Evening: Chill at a traditional tea house. Drink Omija tea.
Weather
Spring (April-May): The International Film Festival (JIFF) is in May. Nice weather.
Summer (June-Aug): Hot. Hanoks can be stuffy if not air-conditioned.
Autumn (Sept-Nov): Best time. The gingko trees at the Confucian school turn bright yellow.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Snow on the tiled roofs is magical. Hot soup tastes better.
Local Customs
- Hanbok Wearing: Renting a Hanbok is standard here. Don’t feel shy; everyone is doing it. You get free entry to the shrine if you wear one.
- Queueing: Famous places like PNB Bakery (Choco Pies) will have lines. Join them.
History & Culture
Jeonju is the ancestral home of the Yi family, who founded the Joseon Dynasty. It has always been an aristocratic city. During the Joseon era, it was one of the three main cities of Korea alongside Seoul and Pyongyang. The Hanok Village was actually built in the 1930s as a resistance movement against Japanese merchants.
Getting Around & Safety
KTX to Jeonju Station. Then a 20-min bus/taxi to the Hanok Village.
- Walking: The Village is car-free on weekends. You walk everywhere.
- Taxi: Cheap and easy for getting to the Makgeolli Alley.
Info for Nomads
Good for a short creative break, but too touristy for long-term. Internet is standard.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Good. 80-100 Mbps.
Cafes: Jeonmang (high view of the village) and Gyodong Dawon (traditional tea).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Choco Pie worth the hype? +
Yes. PNB’s Choco Pie is nothing like the supermarket version. It has marshmallows, strawberry jam, walnuts, and real chocolate. It’s heavy and delicious.
Do I have to sleep on the floor? +
Most authentic Hanoks have ‘Yo’ (mattresses) on the floor. If you have back problems, look for a hotel or a modernized Hanok with beds.
How many days? +
One night and two days is perfect. It’s a small area.