Santiago is the end of the road. For millions of pilgrims over a thousand years, this rain-soaked, granite city was the destination of a lifetime. You can feel that weight. The air smells of wet stone, burning incense, and the Tarta de Santiago (almond cake) baking in shop windows. It is a city of moss and lichen, where the rain doesn’t annoy; it decorates.
The Praza do Obradoiro is the heart. Watching pilgrims arrive, throw themselves on the ground, and cry at the sight of the Cathedral is a daily emotional spectacle. Inside, the Botafumeiro—a giant 53kg silver incense burner—swings through the transept at 68km/h, a medieval air freshener designed to mask the smell of the unwashed hikers.
Santiago is not just a church; it’s a university city. The streets are alive with students, bagpipers (Gaitas) playing Celtic tunes (yes, Galicia is Celtic), and locals hiding from the drizzle in cozy wine bars drinking Albariño out of white ceramic bowls (Cuncas). It is mystical, melancholic, and deeply welcoming.
To enjoy Santiago, walk the rooftops of the Cathedral. And don’t carry an umbrella; wear a raincoat like a local. Umbrellas break here.
The perfect plan for Santiago de Compostela:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Pilgrimage End
- Morning: The Cathedral. Go early. See the Pórtico de la Gloria (masterpiece of Romanesque art, book ahead). Hug the Saint. Visit the Crypt.
- Afternoon: Praza do Obradoiro. Just watch the pilgrims arrive. Visit the Hostal dos Reis Católicos (Parador). You can look at the cloisters. Lunch: Mercado de Abastos. Buy steamed mussels or octopus.
- Evening: Botafumeiro. Check the schedule (usually Fridays or special masses). Seeing it swing is hypnotic. Dinner at O Gato Negro. Tiny, rustic, legendary.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Parks & Views
- Morning: Cathedral Rooftop Tour. Book this. You walk on the granite slate roof. Best view of the squares.
- Afternoon: Alameda Park. Take the photo with the “Two Marias” statue. View of the Cathedral from the Santa Susana hill.
- Evening: Rúa do Franco. The restaurant street. Display cases of lobsters. Have a Ribeiro wine.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Culture
- Morning: Museum of the Galician People. Beautiful spiral stairs. Learn about the Celtic roots.
- Afternoon: City of Culture. Peter Eisenman’s massive, controversial architecture on the hill. It looks like the landscape.
- Evening: Tapas.
Weather
Summer: Pleasant. 20-25°C. Crowded with pilgrims.
Spring/Autumn: Wet, but green and mystical.
Winter: Very rainy. Grey. But the stone looks beautiful wet.
Local Customs
1. The Hug: It is tradition to go behind the altar and hug the statue of St. James. (Currently restricted/changes, check locally).
2. Cuncas: Wine is often served in white ceramic bowls, not glasses, in rustic places.
3. The Shadow: In Praza da Quintana, a shadow of a pilgrim appears on the wall at night (it’s a lightning rod shadow, but legends say it’s a ghost).
History & Culture
The tomb of St. James the Apostle was “discovered” here in the 9th century by a hermit guided by stars (Campus Stellae = Compostela). It became the third holiest site in Christendom after Jerusalem and Rome. The pilgrimage (Camino) funded the city’s Romanesque and Baroque architecture. It was destroyed by Al-Mansur in 997 (who made Christians carry the bells to Córdoba) but rebuilt.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The old town is pedestrian. Slippery when wet.
Airport: SCQ is well connected.
Info for Nomads
A small, atmospheric city. Good for writers. Rainy, which helps focus. Cheap.
Workation Vibe
Good connection.
- Café Casino: Historic, elegant, good for reading/working.
- Costa Vella: Garden cafe. Amazing when sunny.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does it rain every day? +
It feels like it. It rains 2,500mm a year. But the “Orballo” (misty rain) is soft. The city is built for rain (arcades).
Is it depressing? +
No, it’s atmospheric. The student energy keeps it lively.
What is the cake? +
Tarta de Santiago. Almonds, sugar, eggs. No flour. The cross of St. James is stenciled in sugar on top.