Genoa (Genova) is a vertical labyrinth. Squeezed between the mountains and the sea, the city had nowhere to go but up. It is a city of layers: the gritty, noisy port at the bottom, the dark, twisting medieval alleyways (caruggi) in the middle, and the sun-drenched, pastel-colored promenades at the top. It is claustrophobic, authentic, and spectacularly beautiful in a rough-around-the-edges way.
This is not a city for tourists who want a polished experience. The caruggi are so narrow the sun never hits the ground; they smell of focaccia, damp stone, and mystery. You can get lost here in five minutes. But look up, and you see grand Renaissance palaces (the Palazzi dei Rolli) crammed into these tight spaces, hiding Rubens and Van Dyck paintings inside. Genoa was once the richest bank in the world, and that faded wealth is everywhere.
The food is green and fresh. This is the home of Pesto Genovese (basil, pine nuts, garlic, parmesan, pecorino, oil). It is served on Trofie pasta or on lasagna (but not the red kind). And the Focaccia—crispy on the outside, oily and soft on the inside—is eaten for breakfast dipped in cappuccino. Yes, really.
Genoa is underrated. Most people take a ferry or a cruise and leave. But those who stay find a city that feels real. It is the most English of Italian cities (they founded the Genoa Cricket and Football Club), yet it remains fiercely Ligurian. It is a city of sailors, bankers, and poets.
The perfect plan for Genoa:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Palaces & The Dark Alleys
- Morning: Via Garibaldi (Strada Nuova). Visit the Palazzi dei Rolli (Palazzo Rosso, Bianco, Tursi). These are the UNESCO palaces. The rooftop of Palazzo Rosso offers a 360-view.
- Afternoon: Dive into the Caruggi (Old Town). It’s easy to get lost. Find Cattedrale di San Lorenzo. Grab a slice of Focaccia at Focacceria Patrone.
- Evening: Take the Ascensore Castelletto Levante (elevator) up to Spianata Castelletto. Best sunset view in the city (“A balcony over Genoa”). Grab a granita there. Dinner at Il Genovese to try the authentic Pesto with Trofie.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Sea & The Aquarium
- Morning: Porto Antico. Redesigned by Renzo Piano. Visit the Aquarium of Genoa (largest in Europe). It’s expensive but impressive. See the “Bigo” panoramic lift.
- Afternoon: Walk to the Galata Museo del Mare. An incredible museum about migration and ships. Very moving.
- Evening: Walk along the promenade to Boccadasse (or take a taxi). It’s a tiny fishing village absorbed by the city. Pastel houses, pebble beach. Eat a gelato at the beach. It’s the most romantic spot.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Vertical Gardens & Fried Food
- Morning: Take the Funicolare Zecca-Righi up to the old fortress walls (Mura). Hike a bit for views of the two bays.
- Afternoon: Return down. Visit the Mercato Orientale (MOG). It’s a food market with a modern food court. Great for tasting local wines (Pigato, Vermentino).
- Evening: Go to a “Sciamadda” (historic fry shop) like Antica Friggitoria Carega. Eat Frittura di Paranza (fried small fish) in a paper cone.
Weather
Spring (April-June): Ideal. The vertical gardens are green, temps are mild (18-24°C).
Summer (July-Aug): Hot and humid. The alleyways trap heat.
Autumn (Sept-Oct): High risk of heavy rain and flash floods (alluvione), but good food season.
Winter (Nov-March): Mild but damp/windy. The aquarium is a good rainy day activity.
Local Customs
1. Pesto Rules: Never heat pesto. It is stirred into hot pasta at the end. Never ask for red sauce on Trofie.
2. Focaccia handling: Eat it upside down so the salty, oily holes hit your tongue first. This is the local way.
3. Elevators: Genoa has public elevators and funiculars to get up the hills. They are part of the public transport system. Use them.
History & Culture
Genoa was the “Superba” (The Proud), a maritime republic that rivaled Venice. Its admirals controlled the Mediterranean, and its bankers financed the Spanish Empire. It claims to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus (you can see his childhood house). The wealth of the 16th and 17th centuries built the magnificent Strade Nuove (New Streets), a UNESCO site of palaces.
Getting Around & Safety
The city is vertical. Use the AMT system which includes buses, one short metro line, funiculars, and elevators (ascensori). Specifically, ride the Ascensore Castelletto Levante.
The Hack: Walking the caruggi (alleys) is faster than taking a bus in the center, but Google Maps often fails in the narrow streets. Look for physical signs.
Info for Nomads
Authentic. Genoa is not a digital nomad hub yet, which makes it appealing for those who want to avoid the crowds. It’s affordable and real.
Workation Vibe
Good. The city is upgrading its fiber.
- Talent Garden Genova: Located in the Great Campus (science park), a bit out of the way but pro.
- Tazze Pazze: A specialty coffee shop in the center, laptop friendly in off-hours.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Old Town dangerous? +
The “Caruggi” can feel sketchy at night. Some areas (around Via Prè) have a reputation for drug dealing. Stick to the main thoroughfares (Via San Lorenzo, Via del Campo) and busy squares. It’s more atmospheric than dangerous, but keep your wits about you.
What is the best Pesto? +
True Genoese Pesto must have “Basilico Genovese DOP”. It is bright green (not dark). Try it at Sa Pesta or Il Genovese.
Is it hilly? +
Extremely. Bring comfortable shoes. You will be walking up and down stairs constantly.