Florence (Firenze) is the cradle of the Renaissance, a city so packed with masterpieces it gave its name to a psychiatric disorder (Stendhal Syndrome: fainting from aesthetic overload). Walking through Florence is walking through the minds of Michelangelo, Brunelleschi, and Dante. The scale is human—narrow, stone-paved streets that suddenly open up to piazzas dominated by marble giants.
But Florence has a dark side: it is arguably the most touristed city in Italy per square meter. In July, the heat and the crowds can be suffocating. To love Florence, you must be strategic. You must wake up at dawn to see the Duomo before the buses arrive. You must cross the Arno river to the Oltrarno neighborhood to find the artisans still working with leather, gold, and paper.
The city smells of leather (from the San Lorenzo market) and grilled meat. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina is a serious matter: a T-bone steak, three fingers thick, cooked rare over coals. Do not ask for it well-done; the chef might actually refuse. Florence is stern, elegant, and proud. It doesn’t have the chaos of Rome or the grit of Naples. It has a focused, intense beauty that demands your full attention.
The perfect plan for Florence:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Duomo & David
- Morning: Accademia Gallery. You are here for one thing: David. Hack: Book the first slot (8:15 AM). Seeing him without 500 heads in the way is spiritual.
- Afternoon: Duomo (Cathedral). The exterior is better than the interior. Climb Giotto’s Bell Tower instead of the Dome for a better view (because you can *see* the Dome). Lunch at Mercato Centrale (upstairs food court).
- Evening: Walk to Ponte Vecchio at sunset. It’s crowded but essential. Dinner at Trattoria Marione (noisy, authentic, great boar sauce).
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Uffizi & Oltrarno
- Morning: Uffizi Gallery. Botticelli’s Venus. Hack: Start at the top floor and work down. Book tickets weeks ahead.
- Afternoon: Cross the river to Oltrarno (Santo Spirito area). This is the “real” Florence. Visit Piazza Santo Spirito. Vintage shops and artisans.
- Evening: Hike up to Piazzale Michelangelo for the postcard view of the city. Bring a bottle of wine and sit on the steps. Dinner at Osteria Santo Spirito—get the truffle gnocchi.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Medici Power & Gardens
- Morning: Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Massive renaissance gardens. Great for escaping the stone jungle.
- Afternoon: Visit Santa Croce church (tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli). Leather shopping at Scuola del Cuoio (Leather School) behind the church—expensive but authentic.
- Evening: A steak dinner. Trattoria Sostanza (famous for butter chicken too) or I’ Brindellone (classic, no frills).
Weather
Spring (April-May): Beautiful but crowded.
Summer (July-Aug): The stone buildings trap heat like an oven. 35-40°C. Very difficult.
Autumn (Sept-Nov): Best balance. October offers golden light and wine harvest vibes.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Cold, crisp. Fewer tourists, which is a huge plus.
Local Customs
1. Steak Rules: A Bistecca is for sharing (usually 1kg+). It comes rare. Accept it.
2. Bread: Florentine bread has no salt (Pane Sciocco). It tastes bland alone but is designed to soak up salty sauces and soups (Ribollita).
3. Gelato: Look for “Artigianale”. Avoid mountains of fluffy, bright colored gelato (that’s air and chemicals). Good gelato is flat in the tin and natural colors.
History & Culture
Florence was a Roman settlement that exploded in the Middle Ages thanks to banking (the Medici family) and wool trade. The Medici patronage fueled the Renaissance, funding Galileo, Botticelli, and Michelangelo. It was briefly the capital of Italy (1865-1871). The flood of 1966 nearly destroyed its art, but the “Mud Angels” (volunteers) saved the city.
Getting Around & Safety
The historic center is a ZTL (Traffic Limited Zone). You cannot drive there. Walk everywhere.
The Hack: The C3 and C4 electric mini-buses navigate the tiny streets if you are tired.
Info for Nomads
Can be overwhelming due to the sheer volume of tourists. Meeting locals is hard as they tend to avoid the center. The Expat community is large, though (students, artists).
Workation Vibe
Good. Cafes are getting better at welcoming laptops.
- La Ménagère: Beautiful concept store/bistro. Very popular for working, good wifi, slightly pricey.
- Ditta Artigianale (Via dello Sprone): Serious coffee, good vibes for working.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Firenze Card worth it? +
It costs €85 for 72 hours. If you plan to hit the Uffizi, Accademia, Pitti, and a few others, yes. It simplifies entry, though you still often need to book time slots for the big two.
What is the wine window? +
Buchette del Vino. Tiny little arched windows in palace walls. During the plague (and revived during COVID), they sold wine through them to avoid contact. Babae in Santo Spirito is a famous one currently active.
Is it expensive? +
Yes. Hotels are pricey. Restaurants in the main squares are tourist traps. Go two streets back to find normal prices.