Forget the lazy “Vegas of Asia” comparisons. Macau is far stranger and more beautiful than that. It is a city of schizophrenia, where incense-choked Taoist temples sit comfortably next to pastel-colored Portuguese colonial churches, all overshadowed by the garish, gold-plated hulks of mega-casinos. The air smells of almond cookies baking in the narrow streets near the Ruins of St. Paul’s, abruptly shifting to the pumped-in floral scent of the Venetian’s lobby air conditioning.
Macau is tiny, dense, and rich. You can walk from a Mediterranean plaza with wavy mosaic pavement (calçada) to a grimy Chinese noodle shop in five minutes. The soundscape is a mix of Cantonese shouting, the clatter of mahjong tiles, and the gentle chiming of slot machines. It feels decadent but also deeply historical. This was the first and last European colony in Asia, and the Portuguese legacy isn’t just in the architecture—it’s in the food (Minchi, African Chicken) and the relaxed pace of life on the southern island of Coloane.
While the Cotai Strip is an artificial playground of lights and money, the old peninsula feels like a living movie set from the 1960s. Neon signs reflect in rain puddles, metal shutters rattle, and old men smoke cigarettes on plastic stools. It is a place to lose money, sure, but better yet, a place to lose your sense of time and geography.
The perfect plan for Macau:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Portuguese Peninsula
- Morning: Ruins of St. Paul’s. Hack: Go at 8 AM. By 10 AM, it is a wall of humanity. After the photo, walk up to the Fortaleza do Monte next door for a view of the ruins framed by the bizarre Grand Lisboa casino building.
- Afternoon: Walk down to Senado Square. Lunch at Wong Chi Kei for shrimp roe noodles. Then, hunt for dessert: Margaret’s Café e Nata for egg tarts (crust is flakier here than others).
- Evening: Dinner at Albergue 1601. Set in a colonial courtyard with giant camphor trees. Order the African Chicken. Romantic and spooky in the best way.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Cotai Strip Spectacle
- Morning: Taipa Village. A preserved pocket of history near the casinos. Visit the Taipa Houses Museum (mint green colonial houses). Buy almond cookies at Koi Kei Bakery.
- Afternoon: The Venetian. You have to see it. The indoor canals and fake sky are surreal. Hack: Don’t eat here. It’s overpriced. Just walk through for the AC and the spectacle, then head to City of Dreams for better architecture.
- Evening: The House of Dancing Water (check show schedule). It is the world’s largest water show and arguably the best production in Asia. Expensive but worth every cent.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: The Rustic South (Coloane)
- Morning: Take a bus/taxi to Coloane Village. This is sleepy Macau. Visit the Chapel of St. Francis Xavier (bright yellow).
- Afternoon: Lunch at Fernando’s. No reservations, cash only, zero pretension. The suckling pig and clams in garlic sauce are legendary. You sit in a brick warehouse with ceiling fans.
- Evening: Lord Stow’s Bakery (the original in Coloane). Grab a fresh box of egg tarts and sit by the waterfront looking across to Mainland China. A peaceful end to a chaotic trip.
Weather
Spring (March-May): Foggy and humid. Ferry rides can be choppy.
Summer (June-Aug): Hot, rainy, and typhoon-prone. Avoid unless you love casinos (AC).
Autumn (Oct-Dec): Best time. Low humidity, sunny skies, warm evenings.
Winter (Jan-Feb): Cool (15°C). Good for walking, but pack a jacket.
Local Customs
Currency Mix: You can use Hong Kong Dollars (HKD) everywhere in Macau at a 1:1 rate. But you cannot use Macau Patacas (MOP) in Hong Kong. Get rid of your MOP before leaving.
Dress Code: Casinos have rules (no flip flops/singlets). High-end dining requires smart casual.
Photo Rules: strictly NO photography inside gambling areas. Security will pounce.
History & Culture
Macau was a Portuguese trading post from 1557 until 1999. For centuries, it was the interface between the West and the Ming/Qing dynasties. This 400-year cohabitation created the Macanese people—a unique Eurasian mix with their own creole language (Patuá, now nearly extinct) and cuisine. While Hong Kong became a British financial hub, Macau remained a sleepy, somewhat seedy backwater of spies and gamblers until the casino liberalization in the 2000s turned it into the world’s gambling capital.
Getting Around & Safety
Free Shuttles: The casino shuttle buses are free and go everywhere (Border, Ferry Terminal, Airport, major hotels). You don’t need to be a guest to use them. Use the “Casino Hopping” method to get around for free.
Walking: The Peninsula is best explored on foot, though it is hilly.
Taxis: Can be hard to flag down during shift changes (4 PM).
Info for Nomads
Not great for long stays. Accommodation costs are very high compared to the rest of SE Asia or even mainland China. It’s more of a 3-day visa run destination.
Workation Vibe
Internet: Fast and uncensored (unlike Mainland China). Google works.
Cafes:
1. Rethink Coffee Roasters: Serious coffee nerds, good wifi.
2. Terra Coffee House: Near St. Augustine’s Square, cozy and quiet.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a visa? +
Most Western nationalities (US, EU, UK, Aus, Can) get visa-free entry for 30-90 days. It is a separate immigration system from Mainland China.
Is it expensive? +
Accommodation is pricey, especially on weekends (Fri-Sat). Food ranges from cheap street eats ($5 USD noodles) to exorbitant Michelin dining ($300+ USD). Mid-range is harder to find.
HKD vs MOP? +
Use HKD. It’s accepted everywhere (taxis, 7-Eleven, Casinos). If you pay in HKD, you might get change in MOP. Try to spend the MOP before you leave.