Almería is the Wild West of Europe. Literally. The light here is blindingly white, bouncing off the arid, dusty hills and the Moorish fortress (Alcazaba) that looms over the city. It smells of dry earth, sea salt, and the plastic of the greenhouses (the “Sea of Plastic”) that surround it. It is raw, gritty, and spectacularly cinematic.
This is where Sergio Leone filmed his Spaghetti Westerns. The landscape is a mix of North Africa and Arizona. The city itself feels remote, the last stop on the train line. But the energy is vibrant, fueled by a unique tapas culture: Free Tapas. You order a beer, you choose a tapa from the menu. It is one of the last cities to maintain this generosity.
The coast nearby, Cabo de Gata, is the only true desert coast in Europe—volcanic, wild, and untouched by high-rise hotels. To enjoy Almería, you must embrace the starkness. Walk the Alcazaba walls at sunset, imagine Clint Eastwood on the horizon, and eat grilled fish (Gallo Pedro).
The perfect plan for Almería:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Fortress & The Cinema
- Morning: Alcazaba of Almería. It’s massive. Walk the three enclosures. Game of Thrones filmed here (Dorne). The view of the colorful houses of La Chanca is striking.
- Afternoon: Cathedral. It was built as a fortress against pirates. It looks like a castle. Lunch: Casa Puga. Historic bar. Free tapas.
- Evening: Cable Inglés. An old iron ore loading dock. You can walk on it now. Sunset views.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Wild West (Day Trip)
- Morning: Drive to Tabernas Desert (30 mins). Visit Oasys MiniHollywood. See the cowboy show. It’s kitsch but fun history.
- Afternoon: Drive to Cabo de Gata. Playa de los Muertos or Monsul (Indiana Jones filmed here). Volcanic beaches.
- Evening: Return to Almería. Tapas at El Quinto Toro.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Underground
- Morning: Civil War Shelters (Refugios). 4km of tunnels under the city. Book ahead. Very moving.
- Afternoon: Almería Museum.
- Evening: Chill.
Weather
Spring: Perfect. 25°C. Deserts are blooming.
Summer: Hot, but the dry heat is manageable. Sea is great.
Autumn: Warm water.
Local Customs
1. Free Tapas: You pay for the drink (€2.50-3.00), you choose the tapa. Don’t be shy. Order “Cherigan” (toasted bread with alioli).
2. Indalo: The stick figure symbol. It brings luck. It’s everywhere.
3. Siesta: Essential here.
History & Culture
Founded by Caliph Abd al-Rahman III in 955 as the principal harbor of Al-Andalus. The Alcazaba is the second largest Muslim fortress in Spain (after Alhambra). It was a wealthy silk center. After the Christian conquest, it suffered from pirate attacks and earthquakes, leading to a period of decline until the greenhouse boom.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: Center is walkable.
Car: MANDATORY for Tabernas Desert and Cabo de Gata.
Info for Nomads
Cheap, sunny, relaxed. Good base for desert exploration.
Workation Vibe
Good wifi.
- Bella Ciao: Nice cafe/bar atmosphere.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it beautiful? +
It is stark. Not “pretty” like Seville, but dramatic and unique. The light is incredible.
Are the tapas really free? +
Yes. With every drink (beer/wine/soda).
Is it safe? +
Yes. La Chanca neighborhood is picturesque but traditionally marginalized; stick to main paths there.