Amsterdam is a village masquerading as a metropolis. It is intimate, built on a human scale of brick and water, where the reflections of 17th-century Golden Age merchant houses dance in the murky canals. The air smells of damp earth, fresh waffle batter, and occasionally, the sweet, pungent skunk of cannabis—though that is mostly confined to the tourist centers. It is a city of bells: church bells ringing the hour and the frantic, warning bells of bicycles.
The bike is king here. The cycle paths are the arteries, and the cyclists are the blood cells flowing with ruthless efficiency. Do not step into the bike lane. You will be hit, and they will not apologize. The lighting in Amsterdam is famous among painters; the low horizon and high moisture create a diffused, silvery light that makes everything look like a Vermeer painting.
Behind the “Sin City” reputation of weed and red lights lies a cozy, bourgeois soul. This is the city of “Gezelligheid”—an untranslatable Dutch word meaning cozy, convivial, and welcoming. It’s found in the “Bruin Cafés” (Brown Cafes), old pubs with nicotine-stained walls, Persian rugs on the tables, and bartenders who pour beer with a two-finger foam head.
To enjoy Amsterdam, rent a boat (not a bike, if you are unskilled) and see it from the water. Eat the herring raw with onions. And understand that the Red Light District is a place where people work—treat it with respect, not like a zoo.
The perfect plan for Amsterdam:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Canals & History
- Morning: Rijksmuseum. Go at 9 AM. See Rembrandt’s Night Watch immediately. The building itself is a cathedral of art.
- Afternoon: Jordaan Neighborhood. Walk the ‘9 Streets’ (Negen Straatjes). It’s boutique shopping and pretty canals. Lunch at Winkel 43. You must order the Apple Pie. It is the best in the country.
- Evening: Canal Cruise. Skip the big glass boats. Rent a small electric sloop (e.g., Mokumboot) and drive it yourself (no license needed) or take a smaller open-boat tour. Bring wine and cheese.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Tragedy & Tolerance
- Morning: Anne Frank House. Hack: Tickets go on sale 6 weeks in advance on Tuesdays at 10 AM. They sell out in hours. If you miss it, you can’t go. Don’t buy from scalpers (names on tickets).
- Afternoon: Vondelpark. Cycle through it. It’s the city’s backyard. Lunch at Foodhallen in the Old West. High-end street food in an old tram depot.
- Evening: Red Light District (De Wallen). Go early evening (8 PM). Visit Proeflokaal de Ooievaar, a tiny tasting room for Jenever (Dutch gin). Learn the “slurp” method (hands-free first sip).
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Modern Art & Hipsters
- Morning: Van Gogh Museum. Book a time slot. It flows chronologically. The almond blossom painting is stunning.
- Afternoon: Ferry to NDSM Wharf (Amsterdam Noord). It’s free. This is the gritty, industrial side. Shipping containers turned into studios. Lunch at Pllek (restaurant in containers on a fake beach).
- Evening: De Pijp. The Latin Quarter. Diverse and lively. Eat at Saray (Turkish) or get a burger at The Butcher. Drink at a bar on Gerard Douplein.
Weather
Spring (Apr-May): Tulips. King’s Day (April 27) is the world’s biggest street party. 15°C.
Summer (Jun-Aug): Long days (sun sets at 10:30 PM). Parks are full. Can be humid.
Autumn (Sep-Nov): Moody and beautiful. Leaves fall on canals.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Grey, wet, and dark. But cozy pubs and light festivals make it bearable.
Local Customs
1. Bike Lanes: The red paths are for bikes. Walking in them is the ultimate sin.
2. Directness: The Dutch are brutally honest. It is not rudeness; it is efficiency. If they don’t like something, they will tell you.
3. Coffeeshop vs Cafe: A “Coffeeshop” sells weed. A “Cafe” sells coffee and beer. Don’t confuse them.
History & Culture
Amsterdam started as a dam on the Amstel river in the 13th century. Its explosion happened in the 17th century (The Golden Age), when it became the wealthiest city in the world through the Dutch East India Company. The famous canal ring (Grachtengordel) was engineered during this time. It is a masterpiece of urban planning. The city has always been a haven for freethinkers, from Spinoza to modern liberals, valuing tolerance and trade above all.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The center is tiny. You can walk everywhere.
Trams: Excellent. Tap your card (credit card works) on entry AND exit.
Bikes: Rent one only if you are confident. Tourist biking is dangerous. Use Donkey Republic app for rentals.
Trains: Schiphol airport to Central Station takes 15 mins and costs €5.
Info for Nomads
Amsterdam is very English-friendly, but the Dutch stick to their childhood friend groups. It is hard to penetrate the inner circle. Expats hang out with expats.
Workation Vibe
Excellent wifi. Coffee culture is strong.
- Bocca Coffee: High-end roaster, minimalist, good for working.
- Kanarie Club: In the Hallen. Huge space, plenty of plugs, very work-friendly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is weed legal? +
Technically, it is “tolerated.” You can buy 5g per day in a coffeeshop. You cannot smoke tobacco inside. Do not smoke joints on the street in crowded areas; it’s considered trashy.
Is it expensive? +
Yes. Hotels are among the most expensive in Europe. Food is mid-range. To save money, eat Haring (herring) from street stalls (€3) or fries (Friet).
Do they accept cash? +
Many places (bakeries, cafes) are “Pin Only” (Cards only). Always have a debit/credit card ready. Maestro/VPay used to be king, but Visa/Mastercard are accepted almost everywhere now.