Ayutthaya is a graveyard of giants. Once the largest city in the world (c. 1700), it was burned to the ground by the Burmese army in 1767. What remains is a haunting, open-air museum of red brick stupas, headless Buddhas, and prangs (towers) that tilt like corn cobs against the blinding blue sky. The heat here is oppressive, radiating off the ancient stones, but the atmosphere is heavy with the grandeur of a lost empire.
Most tourists do Ayutthaya wrong. They rush in on a bus from Bangkok at 10 AM, sweat through two temples, and leave. The secret to Ayutthaya is the silence of the early morning and the golden hour of sunset. When the day-trippers vanish, the ruins take on a mystical quality. You can hear the wind whistling through the cracks in the chedis. The city is an island surrounded by three rivers, and life here moves at the pace of the bicycle wheels that navigate its ruins.
It is not just about old stones. The food scene is surprisingly vibrant, famous for Roti Sai Mai (a cotton candy wrapped in crepe) and giant river prawns grilled to perfection. Ayutthaya is a reminder of impermanence; seeing the famous Buddha head swallowed by the roots of a Bodhi tree at Wat Mahathat is a poetic lesson in how nature eventually reclaims everything.
The perfect plan for Ayutthaya:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Island Icons
- Morning: Wat Mahathat. Arrive at 7:30 AM. See the Buddha head in the tree roots before the bus groups block the view. Then, walk to Wat Ratchaburana next door for its intricate crypt paintings.
- Afternoon: Lunch: Boat Noodle Alley (Kuay Tiew Reua). Cheap, spicy, blood-thickened broth. Delicious. Then, cycle to Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the three iconic bell-shaped stupas.
- Evening: Sunset at Wat Chaiwatthanaram. It’s off the island. The sun sets directly behind the Khmer-style prangs. It is the best photo in the city.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: River Life & Foreigners
- Morning: Bang Pa-In Summer Palace. (Train or Taxi ride away). A mix of Thai, Chinese, and Gothic architecture. Very royal and manicured.
- Afternoon: Japanese Village / Portuguese Settlement. See where the foreign traders lived. It adds context to the city’s global past. Snack on Roti Sai Mai (sugar floss crepe)—buy it fresh from the street vendors near the hospital.
- Evening: Night Market (Bang Lan). Not huge, but authentic. Grab food and sit by the river.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Elephants & Rivers (Optional)
- Morning: Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon. Massive reclining Buddha and a huge chedi you can climb. Less ruined, more active.
- Afternoon: River Prawn Feast. Go to a riverside restaurant (like Grand Chaophraya). Order the grilled river prawn. They are the size of lobsters. Expensive but mandatory.
- Evening: Train back to Bangkok or enjoy the quiet night.
Weather
Cool Season (Nov-Jan): Pleasant (28°C). Best for biking.
Hot Season (Feb-May): Inferno. 40°C+. The bricks radiate heat. Sightseeing is exhausting.
Rainy Season (June-Oct): Frequent showers. Ruins look moody and green with moss.
Local Customs
- Ruins Respect: Do not climb on the stupas or Buddha statues for photos. It is offensive and illegal.
- Headless Buddhas: Do not place your own head on top of a headless Buddha statue for a ‘funny’ photo. You will be deported or fined.
- Dress Code: Even though they are ruins, they are sacred. Shoulders and knees covered.
History & Culture
Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya was the trading capital of the world, welcoming merchants from Portugal, Japan, China, and France. It was a golden age of Siamese diplomacy and art. The 1767 sack was total; libraries were burned and gold was melted down. The capital moved to Bangkok, leaving Ayutthaya frozen in its destruction.
Getting Around & Safety
Bicycle is the best way. The terrain is flat. Rentals are 50฿/day.
- Tuk-Tuk: The frog-headed tuk-tuks are unique to Ayutthaya. Negotiate an hourly rate (200-300฿) for distant temples.
- Boat: Longtail boats circumnavigate the island.
Info for Nomads
Quiet. Good for a writer’s retreat for a few days, but nightlife is non-existent. Internet is standard.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Good. 50-80 Mbps.
Cafes: Busaba Cafe & Bake Lab (stunning modern design with temple views) and Coffee Old City.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I do it as a day trip? +
Yes. Take the train from Bangkok (Hua Lamphong or Bang Sue). It takes 1.5 hours and costs 15฿ (3rd class). Hire a tuk-tuk at the station.
Why are the Buddhas headless? +
During the 1767 Burmese invasion, statues were decapitated to demoralize the locals, or heads were looted for private collections and museums abroad.
Is it bike friendly? +
Yes, but be careful of heatstroke. Drink water. The traffic is generally respectful of cyclists in the historical park.