Badajoz is the tough, battle-scarred survivor of the frontier. Sitting right on the Portuguese border (La Raya), it is a city of smugglers, soldiers, and arguably the best breakfast in the world. It is not pretty in the conventional sense; it is gritty, lived-in, and loud. The Alcazaba (Moorish citadel) is the largest in Spain, a sprawling grassy ruin where locals walk their dogs and watch the sunset over the Guadiana river.
The sensory highlight here is breakfast. Badajoz takes it seriously. The smell of toasted bread (tostadas) slathered in Cachuela (spiced liver pâté) or Tomate y Aceite fills the streets at 10 AM. The vibe is open and friendly—a mix of Spanish noise and Portuguese melancholy (Saudade).
Carnaval here is legendary—not the polished show of Tenerife, but a raw, street-level party where the whole city drums and dances for days. To enjoy Badajoz, you have to look past the ugly apartment blocks and find the soul in the Plaza Alta, with its red and white geometric patterns, and the chaotic joy of its bars.
The perfect plan for Badajoz:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Citadel & The Square
- Morning: Alcazaba. Walk the walls. It’s a park with ruins. View of the river and Portugal.
- Afternoon: Plaza Alta. The red and white painted square. It was once a souk. Lunch: El Tronco. Traditional tapas.
- Evening: Giralda de Badajoz. A replica of the Seville tower (smaller). Dinner near Plaza de la Soledad.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Border Jumping
- Morning: Drive/Taxi to Elvas (Portugal). It’s a UNESCO site with massive star forts. Have coffee.
- Afternoon: Return to Badajoz. Puerta de Palmas. The grand bridge gate. Walk the river park.
- Evening: Tapas in the Casco Antiguo.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Carnival (if Feb)
- Morning: Sleep.
- Afternoon: Costume prep.
- Evening: Street party (Murgas).
Weather
February: CARNAVAL. It is a National Tourist Interest festival. Massive.
Spring: Green and pleasant.
Summer: Unbearably hot. 45°C.
Local Customs
1. Breakfast (Desayuno): It is a meal out. Order a “Media” (half toast) or “Entera” (whole). Try the Cachuela.
2. Portugal: Locals go to Elvas (Portugal) for lunch/coffee constantly. It’s 15 mins away.
3. Siesta: The city dies between 2 PM and 6 PM.
History & Culture
Founded by Ibn Marwan in 875. It was an independent Moorish kingdom (Taifa). Due to its border position, it has been besieged more times than almost any other city in Spain (most famously and brutally by the British/Wellington in 1812). The fortifications (Vauban style) define its shape.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The old town (Casco Antiguo) is walkable.
Bus: Good network.
Car: Best for visiting Elvas.
Info for Nomads
Very cheap. Good base to explore Portugal and Spain.
Workation Vibe
Good wifi.
- Carmen: Gastronomic market/space. Good vibes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe? +
Generally yes, but some parts of the old town (high up near Alcazaba) can feel sketchy at night. Stick to the main plazas.
What is the "Cachuela"? +
Liver pâté with paprika and garlic. It looks orange. It is delicious on toast.
Why go to Badajoz? +
For the food, the fortress, and the authentic border vibe. It’s not touristy.