Bari is the raw, unpolished gem of Puglia. For years, it was just a transit port for ferries to Greece, ignored by tourists flocking to Lecce. Big mistake. Bari has a dual personality: the French-influenced, grid-like Murat quarter with its grand boulevards and shopping, and Bari Vecchia, the medieval heart sitting on a peninsula.
Bari Vecchia is a sensory labyrinth. Here, grandmothers sit outside their doorways making Orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta) by hand at lightning speed, drying them on mesh screens in the street. The smell of clean laundry and slow-cooked tomato sauce (“ragù di brasciole”) is everywhere. It’s loud, close-knit, and authentically Southern. Doors are left open; life is communal.
The city connects the West to the East. The Basilica of San Nicola holds the bones of St. Nicholas (Santa Claus), making it a major pilgrimage site for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians from Russia. You will hear Russian chanted in the crypt alongside Italian.
Bari is about the sea. The Lungomare (promenade) is the longest in Italy, a fascist-era grandeur of streetlamps and sea spray. In the mornings, fishermen sell raw octopus (polpo crudo) at the old port, and locals eat it right there, tenderized by slamming it against the rocks.
The perfect plan for Bari:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Orecchiette & The Saint
- Morning: Bari Vecchia. Walk to Via delle Orecchiette (Arco Basso). Watch the ladies make pasta. Buy a bag. Visit the Basilica di San Nicola. Go to the crypt to see the Orthodox pilgrims.
- Afternoon: Lunch at La Tana del Polpo for seafood. Walk the Castello Svevo (Norman castle).
- Evening: Walk the wall (Via Venezia) for sea views. Dinner at Mastro Ciccio for a sophisticated Panzerotto.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Promenade & Shopping
- Morning: Walk the Lungomare Nazario Sauro. It’s majestic. See the fishermen at Molo San Nicola (“N’ dèrr’a la lanze”). Try a beer and raw octopus if you dare.
- Afternoon: Shopping in the Murat district (Via Sparano). Visit Teatro Petruzzelli (rebuilt after a fire).
- Evening: Piazza Mercantile. The nightlife hub. Have a drink. Dinner at Le Arpie in the old town.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Day Trip to Polignano
- Morning: Take the train (30 mins) to Polignano a Mare. Famous for the beach cove sandwiched between cliffs.
- Afternoon: Swim, eat a Caffè Speciale (coffee, lemon peel, amaretto, cream) at Il Super Mago del Gelo.
- Evening: Return to Bari. Farewell dinner at Ristorante Biancofiore (upscale seafood).
Weather
Spring (May-June): Perfect. Warm enough to swim, cool enough to explore.
Summer (July-Aug): Very hot. But the nightlife is buzzing.
Autumn (Sept-Oct): Still warm. Sea temperature is great.
Winter (Nov-March): Damp and windy, but the old town is cozy.
Local Customs
1. Raw Fish: Eating raw seafood (crudo) is a religion here. Don’t be afraid. It’s incredibly fresh.
2. Siesta: Everything shuts from 1:30 PM to 5:00 PM. The streets become deserted. Go to the beach or nap.
3. Dialect: The Barese dialect is strong. Even Italians struggle to understand it.
History & Culture
An ancient port city, Bari has been Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab (an Emirate for 20 years!), and Norman. It suffered heavily in WWII (the “Pearl Harbor of Europe” chemical weapon disaster). It has shed its rough reputation in the last decade to become the vibrant capital of Puglia.
Getting Around & Safety
Walkable center. Trains connect to other Puglian towns (Polignano, Monopoli).
The Hack: The train from the airport is fast and cheap (€5), taking you straight to Bari Centrale.
Info for Nomads
Very social. People live outside. The “Barese” are direct and loud but welcoming. Nightlife is street-based (standing with drinks outside bars).
Workation Vibe
Improving. Coworking spaces are popping up.
- Impact Hub Bari: Located at the Fiera del Levante. Professional community.
- Jérôme Chocolat: Cafe in the Murat district, decent for a few hours of work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe? +
Yes. Bari Vecchia used to be a no-go zone 20 years ago (purse snatching), but now it is very tourist-friendly and safe.
What is a Panzerotto? +
Similar to a calzone but fried. Dough stuffed with tomato and mozzarella. Be careful: the inside is molten lava. Bite a hole to let the steam out first.
Is it expensive? +
No. Puglia is generally cheaper than the north. Dinner for two with wine can be €50.