Bologna is nicknamed La Grassa (The Fat), La Dotta (The Learned), and La Rossa (The Red). It earns all three. It is the culinary stomach of Italy, the home of the oldest university in the Western world (1088 AD), and a stronghold of left-wing politics and terracotta rooftops.
Walking in Bologna is a unique experience because of the Porticoes—nearly 40km of covered arcades that line the streets. They create a city of shadow and light, protecting you from the sun in summer and the rain in winter. The vibe is young, intellectual, and bohemian, thanks to the massive student population. You’ll see professors with leather satchels arguing with students with blue hair in piazzas that date back to the 12th century.
But let’s be honest: you come here to eat. This is the home of Mortadella, Tortellini, Lasagna, and Ragù (what the world wrongly calls Bolognese sauce). The food culture is not snobby; it is hearty and excessive. You eat pork in all its forms. You drink Lambrusco (sparkling red wine) which cuts through the fat perfectly.
Bologna feels lived-in and comfortable. It doesn’t have the frantic pressure of Rome or the tourist crush of Florence. It invites you to slow down, climb a tower, eat a plate of Tagliatelle, and discuss politics over coffee.
The perfect plan for Bologna:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Towers & The Square
- Morning: Piazza Maggiore. See the Basilica di San Petronio (unfinished façade). Hack: Go inside to see the Cassini Meridian line on the floor. It’s a giant solar calendar.
- Afternoon: Climb the Torre degli Asinelli. 498 wooden steps. It leans. The view is a sea of red roofs. *Note: Check if open, currently under maintenance due to leaning concerns.*
- Evening: Explore the Quadrilatero (ancient market streets behind the square). The smell of mortadella is everywhere. Dinner at Osteria dell’Orsa (student classic, communal tables, cheap Tagliatelle).
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Food Pilgrimage
- Morning: Archiginnasio. The old university seat. Visit the Anatomical Theatre (carved wood room where they dissected bodies). It is stunning.
- Afternoon: Walk to Santo Stefano (The Seven Churches). A complex of interlocking churches. Very peaceful. Lunch at Sfoglia Rina—pasta factory turned restaurant. Queue is long but moves fast.
- Evening: Walk towards the University district (Via Zamboni). Grab a drink at Le Stanze (a bar in an old chapel with frescoes). Dinner at Trattoria di Via Serra (Book weeks ahead, it’s famous).
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: The Long Walk
- Morning: The San Luca Sanctuary walk. Walk under the world’s longest portico (3.8km) up the hill to the sanctuary. It’s a pilgrimage and a workout. View is epic.
- Afternoon: Return to town. Reward yourself with Gelato. Go to Cremeria Santo Stefano or Galliera 49.
- Evening: Relax in Giardini Margherita (park). Then a late savory dinner at Drogheria della Rosa—quirky place, great steak and tortellini.
Weather
Spring (April-June): Perfect. 20-25°C. The porticoes are lovely.
Summer (July-Aug): The city sits in a bowl and gets incredibly humid and hot. Avoid.
Autumn (Sept-Oct): Great food season. Mushrooms and truffles appear.
Winter (Nov-March): Cold and foggy. But the heavy food tastes best in winter.
Local Customs
1. Spaghetti Bolognese does not exist: Do not ask for it. It is Tagliatelle al Ragù. The pasta must be fresh egg noodles to hold the sauce.
2. University vibe: The Piazza Verdi area is student central. It can be gritty (graffiti, punks), but it’s the beating heart of the city.
3. Aperitivo: Very big here. Around 7 PM, buy a Spritz or wine and enjoy the buffet.
History & Culture
Originally Etruscan, then Roman, Bologna became a free commune in the Middle Ages. It was a city of towers—wealthy families built up to 180 towers to show off (only a few remain, including the leaning Asinelli). The University changed everything, bringing scholars from across Europe and giving the city its intellectual, rebellious character.
Getting Around & Safety
The historic center is compact and walkable. Buses (TPER) are good.
The Hack: Rent a bike. Bologna is flat and bike-friendly.
Info for Nomads
Excellent. The student vibe makes it very open. There are endless events, protests, concerts, and debates. You will not be bored.
Workation Vibe
Very good. The city caters to 80,000 students.
- Scuderia Future Food Living Lab: In the university zone. Huge, student-focused, good plugs.
- Pugglla: Nice café with a good work vibe.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it worth climbing the Tower? +
Yes, but there is a superstition: University students should never climb it before graduation, or they will never graduate. If you aren’t a student, go for it. The view of the red city is iconic.
What is the "Whispering Wall"? +
In the Palazzo del Podestà (Piazza Maggiore), under the arches, the acoustics allow you to whisper into one corner and be heard perfectly in the opposite corner. Fun trick.
Is it vegetarian friendly? +
Surprisingly, yes, despite the pork obsession. Tortelloni (different from Tortellini) are usually filled with ricotta/spinach or pumpkin. Just ask about lard in the dough.