Brighton is affectionately known as “London-by-the-Sea,” but it is far wilder, weirder, and more colorful than the capital. It is a city that smells of salt spray, vinegar on chips, and expensive coffee. The light here is sharp and dazzling, bouncing off the English Channel and the white stucco Regency buildings. It is a place of hedonism and tolerance, the LGBTQ+ capital of the UK, where drag queens, green-haired punks, and well-heeled London expats mix seamlessly.
The seafront is the stage. The pebble beach (don’t expect sand) is lined with carousel rides, fish shacks, and the skeletal remains of the West Pier rising from the water like a ghost. But the real heart of Brighton is in The Lanes—a maze of narrow, twisting alleyways packed with antique jewelry shops, and the North Laine, a bohemian district of vintage clothes, record stores, and vegan cafes.
Brighton feels rebellious. It elected the UK’s first Green MP. It parties harder than anywhere else on the south coast. The vibe ranges from the tacky neon glory of the Palace Pier to the opulent, ridiculous grandeur of the Royal Pavilion—a palace that looks like the Taj Mahal dropped into an English seaside town. It is a city that encourages you to be whoever you want to be.
Noise levels are high near the front, with the scream of seagulls (who will steal your food) and the bass of beach clubs. But step back into the terrifyingly steep streets of Hanover or the posh avenues of Hove (“actually”), and you find a colorful, community-focused village feel.
The perfect plan for Brighton:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Royals and Rocks
- Morning: The Royal Pavilion. It is insane. Indian exterior, Chinese interior. A monument to excess. Don’t skip the audio guide.
- Afternoon: The Lanes. Get lost in the narrow alleys. Lunch at Riddle & Finns (The Lanes location)—sit at the marble counter and eat oysters and champagne.
- Evening: Brighton Palace Pier. Go at dusk when the lights turn on. Play the dolphin derby. Eat donuts (guard them). It’s tacky but you have to do it once.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Bohemian North Laine
- Morning: North Laine (distinct from The Lanes). This is the hipster area. Browse Snoopers Paradise—a massive antique flea market. You can lose hours here.
- Afternoon: Lunch at Iydea (legendary vegetarian cafeteria) or The Prince George (vegetarian pub). Brighton is a vegan/veg paradise.
- Evening: Drinks at The Mesmerist or Komedia for a comedy show. The nightlife here is vibrant and varied.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Heights and Hove
- Morning: i360 Viewing Tower. It’s a “vertical pier.” Views are great on a clear day. Then walk west along the promenade towards Hove.
- Afternoon: See the colorful Beach Huts. Lunch at Rockwater in Hove (right on the beach). Walk back past the Regency architecture of Brunswick Square.
- Evening: Sunset drinks at The Fortune of War (beachfront pub shaped like an upside-down boat). Watch the sun drop into the sea.
Weather
Spring: Windy but bright. The Brighton Festival in May is excellent.
Summer: The beach is packed. Pride (August) is the biggest event of the year—the whole city becomes a party.
Autumn: Beautiful sunsets. The starlings perform murmurations (aerial dances) over the pier.
Winter: bracing. The “Burning of the Clocks” festival in Dec is magical.
Local Customs
Seagulls: They are apex predators. Do not eat a donut openly on the pier. They will attack. Serious warning.
The Beach: It is pebbles. Walking barefoot is painful. Bring flip flops or jelly shoes.
Open Mind: Brighton is liberal. You will see things that might shock conservative sensibilities. embrace it.
History & Culture
Brighton was a sleepy fishing village called Brighthelmstone until the Prince Regent (later George IV) decided to build his pleasure palace here in the 18th century. He brought the aristocracy, the gambling, and the mistresses. The railway arrived in 1841, bringing the London masses for day trips. This mix of royal debauchery and working-class holiday fun defines its spirit today.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The best way. The Lanes are pedestrianized.
Buses: Excellent network. Key to get to the Marina or Devils Dyke.
Train: Fast connection to London (50 mins) and Gatwick Airport.
Info for Nomads
Very popular. High cost of living, but incredible community. Coffee culture is top-tier.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Fast.
Cafes: Pelicano (The Level) has great roasts. Redroaster (St James St) is swanky, bright, and famous for brunch/work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the beach sand? +
No. It is flint shingle (pebbles). It makes a lovely sound when the waves pull back, but it is not soft to sit on.
Is it a party town? +
Yes, weekends are rowdy with bachelor/bachelorette parties (stags and hens). Mid-week is much chillier and artsy.
How LGBTQ+ friendly is it? +
Extremely. Kemptown is the historic gay village, but the whole city is safe and welcoming.