Cartagena is a layer cake of civilizations, cut open to reveal the filling. It is a port city surrounded by five hills, smelling of the sea and the sweet, condensed milk aroma of Café Asiático. This is the city of Hannibal (Carthage) and the Romans, but it is also a gritty naval base with stunning Art Nouveau architecture built by mining barons.
The contrast is striking. You can look at a Roman Theatre (discovered only in 1988 under a slum) and then turn around to see the first submarine ever launched (Isaac Peral’s). The streets are paved with marble, reflecting the bright Mediterranean sun. The vibe is proud and resilient; Cartagena has its own anthem and feels distinct from the rest of Murcia.
It’s a city of secrets. The Semana Santa here is militaristic and precise, a sight to behold. To enjoy Cartagena, order an Asiático (coffee, condensed milk, cognac, Licor 43, cinnamon, lemon) and sip it while looking at the Roman ruins. It’s a caffeine bomb that explains the local energy.
The perfect plan for Cartagena:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Romans & Submarines
- Morning: Roman Theatre Museum. Rafael Moneo designed the museum. It leads you into the theatre. It is spectacular.
- Afternoon: Naval Museum. See the Isaac Peral Submarine (first electric sub). It’s an engineering marvel. Lunch: La Catedral (views of the ruins).
- Evening: Panoramic Lift. Go up to Castillo de la Concepción. Best view of the harbor and the theatre from above.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Modernism & Archaeology
- Morning: Roman Forum District. New excavations. Walk the ancient streets.
- Afternoon: Walk Calle Mayor. Admire the Art Nouveau buildings (Gran Hotel, Casino). Lunch: El Barrio de San Roque. Eat Caldero (rice).
- Evening: ARQUA (Underwater Archaeology Museum). See the treasure of the Odyssey (coins). Dinner: Magoga (Michelin star) if you want to splurge.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Forts
- Morning: Boat trip to the harbor forts (Christmas Fort).
Weather
Spring/Autumn: Best. 25°C.
Summer: Hot and humid. The hills trap the heat.
Winter: Mild.
Local Customs
1. Asiático: You must try this coffee. It has layers. Don’t stir it too much.
2. Roman Theatre: The museum entrance is far from the theatre. You walk through a tunnel under the church.
3. History: Locals are proud of their Carthaginian roots. There is a festival (Romans vs Carthaginians) in September.
History & Culture
Founded as Qart Hadasht (New Carthage) by the Carthaginians in 227 BC. Hannibal marched elephants from here to Rome. Conquered by Scipio Africanus (Roman). It has been Spain’s main naval base in the Mediterranean for centuries. It was the last Republican stronghold in the Civil War.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The center is pedestrian. Hills require legs or the Panoramic Lift.
Boat: Tourist boat tours the harbor fortifications.
Info for Nomads
Great history, walkable, good weather. Affordable.
Workation Vibe
Good wifi. Café Lab is a cool spot.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Licor 43? +
A sweet vanilla/citrus liqueur made in Cartagena. It’s in the Asiático coffee.
Is it a beach destination? +
Cala Cortina is the city beach (nice). La Manga is a strip nearby (very touristy/developed). Calblanque is a wild natural park beach (best).
Is it safe? +
Yes.