Castellón is the quiet middle child of the Valencian Community. It lacks the fame of Valencia or the tourism of Alicante, which makes it refreshingly authentic. It smells of orange blossoms (the surrounding plains are full of orchards) and the salty, industrial tang of the Grao (the port). This is a city that works for a living—it is the ceramics capital of Spain—but knows how to eat.
The center is pleasant and flat, revolving around the Fadrí, an octagonal bell tower that stands alone, separate from the cathedral. But the real soul is in the Grao (the seaside district). Here, life revolves around the arrival of the fishing boats. The rice dishes here—Arroz a banda (rice cooked in fish stock, served with aioli)—rival anything in Valencia.
It is unpretentious. The beaches (Gurugú, Pinar) are vast, sandy, and uncrowded. There is a sense of space here. To enjoy Castellón, rent a bike, ride through the orange groves to the beach, and eat seafood with the dockworkers.
The perfect plan for Castellón de la Plana:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Tower & The Port
- Morning: Plaza Mayor. See the Fadrí tower and the Concatedral. Visit the Central Market.
- Afternoon: Take the TRAM to the Grao. Walk the marina. Lunch: Tascas del Grao. Simple fried fish and rice. Try El Brisamar.
- Evening: Parque Ribalta. A nice 19th-century park. Tapas in Calle Tascas (Barracas).
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Art & Beach
- Morning: EACC (Contemporary Art Space). Modern and edgy.
- Afternoon: Gurugú Beach. Relax on the sand. Beach bar (Chiringuito).
- Evening: Dinner at ReLevante (Miguel Barrera) if you want Michelin star quality in a hotel.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Islands
- Morning: Boat trip to Columbretes Islands. Volcanic reserve. Snorkeling is amazing. (Need to book ahead).
Weather
Summer: Hot, humid beach weather. 30°C.
Spring/Autumn: Perfect. 24°C.
Winter: Mild.
Local Customs
1. Arroz a Banda: The local specialty. The rice and fish are often served separately. It comes with Alioli.
2. Fadrí: You can climb the tower for free (limited hours). Do it.
3. Magdalena: The pilgrimage to the old hermitage (Romería) is the big festival (Lent).
History & Culture
Founded in 1251 when King James I moved the town from the hill (Magdalena) to the plain. Hence “de la Plana.” It has always been agricultural and later industrial (tiles). The port (Grao) has been its economic lifeline.
Getting Around & Safety
Bikes (Bicicas): The terrain is flat. Biking is easy.
Tram (TRAM): Connects the City to the Grao (Port) and University.
Info for Nomads
Very cheap rent. Good beaches. Quiet.
Workation Vibe
Good wifi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it touristy? +
Not really. It is a working city. You get a real Spanish experience.
How is the rice? +
Spectacular. The fish stock is intense. Try Arroz del Senyoret (peeled seafood).
Is it safe? +
Yes.