Cuenca defies gravity. The old town is perched on a knife-edge limestone spur between two deep gorges (Júcar and Huécar rivers). The famous Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses) literally dangle over the abyss, their wooden balconies jutting out into thin air. It smells of pine, river water, and Resoli (a spiced coffee and anise liqueur sold in ceramic jugs).
It is a city of vertigo and abstraction. In the 1960s, it became the unlikely hub of Spanish Abstract Art, housing a world-class museum inside the medieval hanging houses. The contrast between the 15th-century architecture and the modern art is jarring and brilliant.
The light here is dramatic; the sun hits the white and ochre cliffs, turning them gold at sunset. The San Pablo Bridge—a terrifying iron footbridge spanning the gorge—is the ultimate test of nerve. It sways slightly. Cuenca is rugged, chilly at night, and hauntingly beautiful.
To enjoy Cuenca, cross the bridge. Look down. Then eat Morteruelo (a warm, pâté-like stew) to calm your nerves.
The perfect plan for Cuenca:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Hanging Houses & Art
- Morning: San Pablo Bridge. Cross it for the iconic view of the Hanging Houses. Take the photo.
- Afternoon: Spanish Abstract Art Museum. Inside the Hanging Houses. It’s free/cheap and the art is cool. The views from the windows are scary. Lunch: Figón de Pedro. Order Morteruelo and Zarajos (lamb intestines).
- Evening: Plaza Mayor. The Cathedral facade is unfinished. Have a drink. Walk down the gorge path at night.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Rocks & Ruins
- Morning: Enchanted City (Ciudad Encantada). 30 min drive. Massive rock formations that look like mushrooms, bears, boats. It’s a geological park.
- Afternoon: Ventano del Diablo. A viewpoint over the Júcar river. Stunning.
- Evening: Parador de Cuenca. Have a drink in the former monastery across the bridge.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Rivers
- Morning: Walk the Hoz del Júcar path. Bottom of the gorge. Green and peaceful.
- Afternoon: Antonio Pérez Foundation. Weird eclectic art in an old convent.
- Evening: Dinner at Trivio (Michelin star, fermented foods).
Weather
Spring/Autumn: Best. The gorges are green. 20°C.
Summer: Hot days, cool nights. The stone reflects heat.
Winter: Cold. Snow is magical here.
Local Customs
1. Morteruelo: It looks like brown paste. It tastes like heaven (game meat, spices). Eat it with bread.
2. The Bridge: Don’t run on the San Pablo bridge. It shakes.
3. Hills: The old town is at the top of a steep hill. Take the bus/elevator/taxi up, walk down.
History & Culture
A Moorish fortress (Kunka). Conquered by Alfonso VIII in 1177. It became a textile center. The hanging houses were once common along the gorge, but only three remain (14th century). It declined until the Abstract Art Museum opened in 1966, revitalizing it as a cultural destination.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: Steep. Wear grip shoes.
Bus: Shuttle to the top (Plaza Mayor).
Train: AVE from Madrid (55 mins) or Valencia (1 hour). Station is out of town (need taxi/bus).
Info for Nomads
Quiet, inspiring landscape. Good for artists/writers.
Workation Vibe
Decent wifi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the bridge safe? +
Yes, but it is high (40m) and has a metal grid floor. Not for acrophobes.
Is it a day trip? +
Easy day trip from Madrid via AVE. But the night lighting on the gorge is worth a stay.
What are Zarajos? +
Marinated lamb intestines wound around a vine branch and fried. Crispy, intense. Try one if you dare.