Gijón (Xixón) is the rebellious, working-class brother of Oviedo. It sits on the sea, raw and energetic. It smells of the Atlantic tide, diesel from the port, and the ubiquitous cider. This is a city that lives on the street. The San Lorenzo beach is the heart, a massive crescent of sand where the locals walk even in rainstorms.
Gijón doesn’t care about being polished; it cares about having a good time. The historic fisherman’s quarter, Cimavilla, sits on a headland topped by the Elogio del Horizonte—a massive concrete sculpture by Chillida that amplifies the sound of the sea when you stand inside it. It’s spiritual and brutalist.
The cider culture here is even more intense than in Oviedo. In the Plaza del Lavaderu, people sit on the ground drinking bottles of Sidra while the sun sets. It’s unpretentious. The food is gluttonous: seafood stews, sea urchins (Oricios) in winter, and sweet crepes (Frixuelos).
To enjoy Gijón, walk the wall of San Lorenzo beach. Get sprayed by the sea. Then go to a Chigre (cider bar) and stain your shoes with apple juice.
The perfect plan for Gijón:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Horizon & The Sea
- Morning: Cimavilla. The old quarter. Walk up to the Elogio del Horizonte. Stand inside the concrete curves. Hear the ocean roar.
- Afternoon: San Lorenzo Beach. Walk the promenade (The Wall). Visit the Roman Baths (Termas). Lunch: La Galana in Plaza Mayor.
- Evening: Plaza del Lavaderu. Drink cider at Casa Tino. Watch the sunset. Dinner at Agua (modern) or a traditional sidrería.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Culture & Labor
- Morning: Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura. A massive, imposing building (formerly a university for workers’ children, built under Franco). It’s majestic and slightly dystopian. Climb the tower.
- Afternoon: Botanical Garden. Right next door. Lunch in the area.
- Evening: Puerto Deportivo. The marina. Letras de Gijón (Red letters).
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Aquarium
- Morning: Aquarium of Gijón. Focuses on Atlantic/Cantabrian river life.
- Afternoon: Relax on Poniente Beach.
- Evening: Cider crawl in Cimavilla.
Weather
Summer: Beach weather. 23°C. Lively.
Winter: Rough sea, wind, rain. Dramatic.
Spring: Green and pleasant.
Local Customs
1. Escanciar: Pouring cider from high up. Waiters do it. Don’t try unless you want to get wet.
2. Culín: A small shot of cider. You drink it all at once.
3. Semana Negra: A massive crime fiction/cultural festival in July. Huge party.
History & Culture
A Roman fortified town (Gigia). The Roman baths are still visible. It was a major port in the 19th century for coal export. It was heavily industrialized (shipyards, steel), creating a strong labor movement. Today, it’s transitioning to services/tourism but keeps its industrial pride.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The bay is long but walkable.
Bus: Good network.
Info for Nomads
Great vibe. Less pretentious than other cities. Good surf/work balance.
Workation Vibe
Good internet.
- Catlove Coffee: Hipster, good coffee, laptop friendly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it better than Oviedo? +
Different. Oviedo is polished and inland. Gijón is raw and coastal. Do both.
Can I surf? +
Yes, San Lorenzo is a surf beach.
Is it safe? +
Yes.