Girona is a city of stone and secrets. Walking through the Barri Vell (Old Town) feels like stepping onto a movie set—which it literally was for Game of Thrones. The air is cool and damp in the narrow alleys of the Call (Jewish Quarter), one of the best-preserved in the world. The silence here is heavy, broken only by the bells of the Cathedral and the click of road bike cleats on cobblestones.
Girona is the Mecca of pro cycling. You will see spindly, tanned athletes everywhere drinking cortados. But beyond the Lycra, it is a city of distinct color. The houses hanging over the Onyar River are painted in warm ochres, creams, and reds, glowing in the afternoon sun like a Florentine painting. The smell of the city is damp stone, roasting coffee, and the sweet scent of Xuixo (a deep-fried cream pastry).
It is Catalan to the bone—more so than Barcelona. Flags hang from every balcony. The vibe is intellectual, slow, and fiercely independent. The food scene is elevated by the presence of El Celler de Can Roca (twice named best restaurant in the world), which has trickled down high standards to even the simplest bistro.
To enjoy Girona, walk the medieval walls at sunset. Touch the ancient stones. And kiss the lion’s bottom (a statue) for luck—it’s mandatory.
The perfect plan for Girona:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Thrones & Walls
- Morning: Girona Cathedral. The widest Gothic nave in the world. The majestic flight of steps was the “Great Sept of Baelor” in GoT.
- Afternoon: Arab Baths. 12th-century Romanesque baths. Then walk the Passeig de la Muralla (City Walls). The views of the Pyrenees are stunning.
- Evening: The Call (Jewish Quarter). Get lost in the maze. Visit the Jewish History Museum. Dinner at Bistrot (on the steps). Romantic and historic.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: River & Rocas
- Morning: Eiffel Bridge. Built by Gustave Eiffel just before the tower. Great photo of the colorful Onyar Houses. Kiss the Lioness’ Bottom nearby.
- Afternoon: Rocambolesc. The ice cream shop by the Roca brothers. It’s Willy Wonka style. Try the “Panet” (warm brioche stuffed with ice cream).
- Evening: Plaça de la Independència. Neoclassical square. Drinks at La Fabrica (cycling cafe) if open, or a wine bar nearby. Dinner at Casa Marieta for traditional food.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Nature & Castles
- Morning: Hike to Castell de Sant Miquel. It’s a gentle climb from the city. Panoramic views.
- Afternoon: Lunch at König. It’s a chain, but a local institution. Cheap, good “Patatas Bravas.”
- Evening: Walk the Parc de la Devesa. Huge plane trees. Very quiet.
Weather
Spring (Apr-Jun): The “Temps de Flors” (Flower Festival) in May is spectacular but crowded. 20°C.
Summer (Jul-Aug): Hot, but less humid than the coast.
Autumn (Sep-Nov): Perfect for cycling and hiking.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Cold, crisp nights. 5-10°C.
Local Customs
1. Kiss the Lion: There is a stone lion on a pole (Cul de la Lleona). You must climb the steps and kiss its bottom to return to Girona.
2. Catalan: They speak Catalan first, Spanish second. A “Bon dia” goes a long way.
3. Cycling: Drivers respect cyclists here. It’s a holy activity.
History & Culture
Founded by Romans (Gerunda) on the Via Augusta. It was a melting pot for centuries. The Jewish community flourished here in the 12th century, creating the Kabbalistic school, until the expulsion in 1492. The city has been besieged 25 times, earning it the title “City of a Thousand Sieges.” This defensive history gave us the impressive walls that still circle the old town.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The only way in the old town. Steep stairs everywhere.
Train: The high-speed AVE gets you to Barcelona in 38 minutes.
Bike Rental: Essential if you want to fit in. Eat Sleep Cycle is the hub.
Info for Nomads
A top tier European hub for cycling nomads. The community is huge. English is spoken everywhere in the cycling world.
Workation Vibe
Excellent internet. Many cycling cafes double as work spots.
- La Comuna: Owned by a triathlete. Great food, massive tables, very laptop friendly.
- Espresso Mafia: Good coffee, quick emails.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it a day trip from Barcelona? +
It can be (38 min train), but it deserves 2 nights to feel the evening silence of the old town.
Is it expensive? +
Moderate. Cheaper than Barcelona. Rent is rising due to the cycling boom.
Can I get into El Celler de Can Roca? +
You need to book 11 months in advance. If you can’t, try their casual restaurant Normal or their parents’ restaurant Can Roca (daily menu).