Granada is a fairytale. It sits at the foot of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains, crowned by the Alhambra, the most beautiful building in Europe. The air smells of mint tea from the tea shops (Teterías) in Calle Elvira and the crisp mountain chill. It is a city of steep, cobbled hills in the Albayzín, where you will get lost, and you won’t care.
The sensory mix is distinct: Moorish geometry meets Christian bells meets Gypsy flamenco in the caves of Sacromonte. Granada is a student city (Erasmus capital), which keeps it young, cheap, and bohemian. The “Tapas” culture here is the last bastion of the old ways: you buy a drink (beer/wine), and the food comes for free. Not olives—real food. A burger, rice, fried fish. Free.
The light at sunset, turning the Alhambra walls red (Al-Hamra means The Red One), is mesmerizing. Bill Clinton called it the “most beautiful sunset in the world” from the San Nicolás viewpoint. He wasn’t wrong.
To enjoy Granada, you must walk up hills. Lots of them. And you must book your Alhambra tickets 3 months ago. If you didn’t, you are crying outside the gates.
The perfect plan for Granada:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Red Fortress
- Morning: The Alhambra. Spend 4 hours. The Nasrid Palaces are the highlight (intricate stucco). The Generalife gardens are for relaxing. Hack: Enter via the “Justice Gate” (Puerta de la Justicia) if you have a ticket to skip the main entrance trek.
- Afternoon: Walk down through the woods to the center. Lunch (Tapas) at Los Diamantes. Fried fish is the specialty. It is shouting-loud and crowded. Fight for space.
- Evening: Mirador de San Nicolás. The sunset view of the Alhambra. It will be packed with buskers. Go to the mosque next door (Mezquita Mayor) gardens for a quieter view. Dinner at El Trillo in the Albayzín garden.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Caves & Kings
- Morning: Royal Chapel (Capilla Real). See the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella. The Cathedral next door is massive but the Chapel is historically more important.
- Afternoon: Calle Elvira. Buy souvenirs. Drink tea at Kasbah tetería. Walk up to Sacromonte.
- Evening: Sacromonte Cave Flamenco. It’s raw. Venta El Gallo or Zambra María la Canastera. It’s inside a cave. Drink Sangria.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Realejo & Lorca
- Morning: Realejo (Jewish Quarter). Street art of “El Niño de las Pinturas.” Visit the Carmen de los Mártires gardens (free and peacocks everywhere).
- Afternoon: Huerta de San Vicente (Lorca’s summer house). A bit of a walk but peaceful.
- Evening: Tapas crawl on Calle Navas. Try Taberna La Tana for wine knowledge.
Weather
Spring (Apr-Jun): Beautiful. Roses in the Generalife gardens.
Summer (Jul-Aug): Hot, but dry. The nights cool down due to the mountains.
Autumn (Sep-Nov): Perfect. 20°C.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Cold. You can ski in Sierra Nevada in the morning and be at the beach in the afternoon.
Local Customs
1. Free Tapas: You order a drink (€2.50), you get a tapa. Do you choose the tapa? No. If you want specific food, you order a “Ración” (portion) and pay.
2. Alhambra Time: Your ticket has a specific slot for the “Nasrid Palaces.” If you are 1 minute late, you do not get in. Be there 30 mins early.
3. Tea: Drink tea in the Albayzín. It’s part of the heritage.
History & Culture
The last stronghold of the Moors in Spain. The Nasrid dynasty built the Alhambra here while the rest of Spain was being reconquered. It fell to the Catholic Monarchs (Ferdinand and Isabella) in 1492, ending 700 years of Islamic rule. They are buried here in the Royal Chapel. The city retains its Arabic layout in the Albayzín, preserving the medieval past like nowhere else.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The center is walkable. The Albayzín is a hike.
Bus (Red Minibuses): Lines C30/C32 take you up the steep hills to Alhambra and Albayzín. Essential.
Taxi: Cheap and useful for getting to the Alhambra entrance.
Info for Nomads
Granada is cheap, vibrant, and full of students. It’s great for a budget nomad. The energy is creative and relaxed.
Workation Vibe
Wifi is decent. Cafes are plentiful.
- La Qarmita: Books, coffee, homemade cakes. Very popular with laptops.
- Durián: Specialty coffee, clean design.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I really need to book the Alhambra early? +
YES. Tickets sell out 2-3 months in advance. If sold out, check the “Dobla de Oro” card or book a guided tour (more expensive but has slots).
Are the tapas really free? +
Yes. You pay €2.50 for a beer, you get a plate of food. Round 2 is a different plate. Round 3 is better. You can eat dinner for €10.
Is it safe? +
Yes. The Albayzín can be a maze at night, and there might be some hashish offers, but it is generally safe. Wear comfortable shoes (cobblestones are slippery).