Haarlem is often called ‘Little Amsterdam,’ but locals will tell you Amsterdam is just ‘Big Haarlem.’ Located only 15 minutes by train from the capital, it shares the same aesthetic—canals, gabled houses, cobbled streets—but strips away the Red Light District, the stag parties, and the haze of cannabis smoke. What remains is a refined, wealthy, and incredibly historic city that feels like a living Golden Age painting.
The glory of Haarlem is hidden behind closed doors. The city is famous for its Hofjes (almshouse courtyards). These small, silent gardens surrounded by tiny houses were built by rich benefactors for the poor/elderly. Stepping from a busy shopping street into a Hofje is like stepping into a vacuum of silence. The Grote Markt, dominated by the massive St. Bavo Church, is one of the most beautiful squares in the country.
Haarlem is also a beer city. The Jopenkerk is a brewery built inside a desanctified church, reviving medieval recipes that once made Haarlem a brewing powerhouse. It is a city of epicureans; the shopping streets (Gouden Straatjes) are voted the best in the Netherlands, filled with artisanal bakeries, cheese shops, and high-end concept stores. It’s classy, historic, and very calm.
The perfect plan for Haarlem:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Golden Age
- Morning: Grote Markt & St. Bavo. Enter the church (Muller organ played by Mozart). Look at the cannonball embedded in the wall from the Spanish siege.
- Afternoon: Teylers Museum. The oldest museum in the Netherlands. It’s a cabinet of curiosities—fossils, scientific instruments, and Michelangelo drawings. It feels like 18th-century magic.
- Evening: Jopenkerk. Dinner and beer tasting inside the church. The gleaming copper kettles are where the altar used to be. Try the ‘Mooie Nel’ IPA.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Hidden Gardens & Heroes
- Morning: Hofje Tour. Find the hidden entrances. Visit the Hofje van Bakenes (1395). It’s a treasure hunt.
- Afternoon: Corrie ten Boom House. *Book well in advance.* The ‘Hiding Place.’ A watchmaker’s family hid Jews and refugees behind a false wall in the bedroom. It is deeply moving, spiritual, and less crowded than Anne Frank’s house.
- Evening: FrietHoes. Grab the best fries in town (near the station) and sit by the Spaarne river watching the boats open the bridges.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Art & Dunes
- Morning: Frans Hals Museum. See the civic guard portraits. The faces are full of character and life.
- Afternoon: Rent a bike. Cycle to Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. Highland cattle, dunes, and wild nature just 20 mins away. Swim in the Wed (dune lake).
- Evening: Dinner at Ratatouille (Michelin starred but affordable lunch) or a casual bistro in the Vijfhoek district.
Weather
Spring (March-May): Prime location for the Flower Parade (Bloemencorso) in April. Near the tulip fields.
Summer (June-Aug): Terraces on the Grote Markt are buzzing. Boat tours are great.
Autumn/Winter: Cozy. The Christmas market is one of the best/biggest in NL.
Local Customs
- Hofje Etiquette: People still live here. Be silent. Do not peer into windows. Enter only if the gate is unlocked.
- Shopping Hours: Shops close at 5 PM or 6 PM. Sunday opening hours are limited (usually 12-5).
History & Culture
Haarlem dates back to the 10th century. In the Golden Age, it was a hub for the tulip trade and brewing. It was brutally besieged by the Spanish in the 16th century, an event that shaped its resilient identity. Frans Hals, the famous portrait painter, lived and worked here, capturing the civic guards in lively detail.
Getting Around & Safety
Haarlem is a walking city. You do not need public transport within the center.
- Train: 15 mins to Amsterdam, 10 mins to Zandvoort (beach).
- Bike: Rent a bike to cycle to the dunes or the tulip fields in Lisse.
Info for Nomads
Very popular. Good connection to Amsterdam but quieter.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Fast. 100 Mbps.
Cafes: Mogador (great coffee, no laptops on weekends) and Native (hidden alley, great food).
Frequently Asked Questions
Better than Amsterdam? +
For living? Yes. For visiting? It offers the same beauty with zero stress. It is the perfect base to visit Amsterdam (15 min train) without paying Amsterdam hotel prices.
How do I find the Hofjes? +
They are marked by small doors, often with a name above them. If the door is locked, it’s private. If open, you can peek in. Respect the silence.
Is it close to the tulips? +
Yes. Haarlem is the northern tip of the ‘Bollenstreek’ (Bulb Region). You can bike to the fields in 30-40 minutes in spring.