Jakarta is not love at first sight. It is a "Durian"—spiky, smelly, and intimidating on the outside, but rich and creamy if you know how to crack it open. This megacity of 30 million people is a throbbing, heaving organism of concrete and humidity. The air is thick with the scent of kretek (clove cigarettes) and frying oil from roadside gorengan carts. Traffic isn't just a nuisance; it's a geological force that shapes the day. You don't measure distance in kilometers here; you measure it in hours.
But beneath the gridlock and the gleaming malls lies a city of incredible warmth and hidden cool. Jakarta is a patchwork of kampungs (villages) surviving in the shadows of skyscrapers. It has a pulsating nightlife that rivals Bangkok, a third-wave coffee scene fueled by local Java beans, and a history that layers Dutch colonialism over ancient Javanese kingdoms. The "Big Durian" doesn't cater to tourists, which makes it authentically, unapologetically itself.
The noise is constant: the call to prayer echoing from a thousand mosques, the roar of motorbikes, the clatter of spoons on bakso bowls. It is a city of malls, yes—where Jakartans seek refuge in AC—but also of crumbling colonial squares in Kota Tua and trendy speakeasies in Senopati. To survive Jakarta is an achievement; to enjoy it is a badge of honor.
The perfect plan for Jakarta:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Batavia to Merdeka
- Morning: Monas (National Monument). Hack: Skip the elevator to the top (lines are 2 hours long). Just walk the base and visit the diorama museum in the basement to understand the history.
- Afternoon: Kota Tua (Old Town). Rent a colorful bicycle with a matching hat. Visit Café Batavia for lunch—it's a colonial time capsule. Sit by the window and watch the square.
- Evening: Skye Bar. Located on the 56th floor of the BCA Tower. Dress up. The view of the city lights stretching to infinity explains why people endure this city.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Culture and Chaos
- Morning: Istiqlal Mosque. The largest in SE Asia. Across the street is the Jakarta Cathedral. This proximity is a symbol of Indonesian tolerance.
- Afternoon: Jalan Surabaya Antique Market. A street lined with kiosks selling old vinyl, Dutch lamps, and wood carvings. Haggle hard.
- Evening: Street Food tour in Sabang Street. Eat Nasi Goreng Gila (Crazy Fried Rice) or Sate Padang. It’s smoky, loud, and delicious.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: The South Jakarta Vibe
- Morning: Coffee crawling in Senopati. This is the hipster Beverly Hills of Jakarta. Try Anomali Coffee for single-origin Indonesian beans.
- Afternoon: Museum MACAN. Modern and Contemporary Art. Famous for its Yayoi Kusama infinity room. A refuge from the heat.
- Evening: Kemang Area. Dinner at a trendy spot like Dia.Lo.Gue. End the night at a speakeasy. Jakarta's cocktail scene is world-class.
Weather
Dry Season (May-Sept): The only time to visit. Hot (32°C) but less rain. Blue skies are rare due to smog.
Wet Season (Oct-April): Torrential rains. Floods (banjir) are common and paralyze the city. Traffic becomes impossible.
Best Month: June/July for slightly lower humidity.
Local Customs
Handshakes: Do not use your left hand for anything (eating, giving money, shaking hands). It is considered unclean.
Smile: Indonesians smile constantly, even in awkward situations. Smile back.
Dress: Conservative. Shorts are fine in malls, but cover shoulders/knees in religious sites.
History & Culture
Originally the port of Sunda Kelapa, it was renamed Jayakarta ("Victorious City") before the Dutch conquered it in 1619, naming it Batavia. For 300 years, it was the headquarters of the Dutch East India Company (VOC). Canals were dug, forts were built, and wealth was extracted. Independence in 1945 turned it into Jakarta, the chaotic, sprawling capital of the new republic. Today, it is sinking (literally) while racing skyward.
Getting Around & Safety
Gojek/Grab: Essential. Use the "Bike" (motorcycle taxi) option to weave through traffic. Cars (Gocar) will get stuck.
Bluebird Taxi: The only reliable taxi brand. Honest meters.
MRT: New, clean, and fast, but the network is limited to the central North-South corridor.
Info for Nomads
Workation Vibe
Internet: Decent in malls/cafes (20-50 Mbps).
Cafes:
1. 1/15 Coffee (Gandaria): Industrial chic, huge tables, digital nomad fav.
2. Workroom Coffee: Dedicated co-working vibes in Cikini.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the traffic really that bad? +
Yes. It is worse than you can imagine. A 5km trip can take 1.5 hours in a car. Always use Gojek (motorcycle taxis) if you are traveling solo and want to be on time.
Is it safe? +
Generally safe from violent crime. Pickpocketing exists. The biggest danger is crossing the street—motorbikes use sidewalks. Use the "Magic Hand" (raise your hand up) to stop traffic when crossing.
Can I drink alcohol? +
Yes, but it's heavily taxed. Beer (Bintang) is cheap, but wine and spirits are 2-3x Western prices. Stick to Happy Hours.