Kanazawa is often lazily dubbed ‘Little Kyoto,’ but that does it a disservice. It is Kyoto with a backbone of steel and a belly full of the best seafood in Japan. Located on the Sea of Japan coast, the weather here is moody—the locals have a saying: ‘Even if you forget your lunchbox, don’t forget your umbrella.’ This constant precipitation has bred a city of glistening cobblestones, deep hues, and introspective art.
The city is a study in contrast. You arrive at a futuristic glass-dome train station that looks like a spaceship, only to walk ten minutes into Nagamachi, a samurai district of earthen walls so well-preserved you expect a duel to break out. Kanazawa was the seat of the Maeda clan, the second most powerful feudal lords after the Shogun, and they spent their immense wealth not on war, but on craftsmanship. Gold leaf (99% of Japan’s supply is made here), lacquerware, and silk dyeing are not just tourist industries; they are living obsessions.
Food here is serious business. The Omicho Market is a chaotic, shouting temple to the crab and shrimp pulled from the cold sea. The Kano-gani (snow crab) in winter is a delicacy that commands reverence. Kanazawa feels wealthier, quieter, and more sophisticated than the chaotic cities of the Pacific coast. It is a place to eat sushi with gold flakes on top, wander through what is arguably Japan’s finest garden, and get lost in a ‘Ninja Temple’ full of trapdoors.
The perfect plan for Kanazawa:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Perfect Garden & Modern Art
- Morning: Kenrokuen Garden. Go at 7:00 AM. It is considered one of the ‘Three Great Gardens’ of Japan. The balance of water, stone, and pine is perfect. See the Kotoji-toro lantern.
- Afternoon: 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. A stark contrast. The ‘Swimming Pool’ exhibit by Leandro Erlich is the photo op, but the whole circular glass building is a masterpiece. Lunch: Fusion 21 inside the museum.
- Evening: Katamachi. The nightlife district. Find an Izakaya serving Jibu-ni (duck stew), a local specialty.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Geisha & Gold
- Morning: Higashi Chaya District. The geisha teahouse district. Wooden lattice facades. Visit Hakuichi to eat the famous soft-serve ice cream covered in a full sheet of real gold leaf. It tastes like metal and opulence.
- Afternoon: Omicho Market. It’s loud and smelly in a good way. Eat a ‘Kaisen-don’ (seafood rice bowl) at Yamasan Sushi. Warning: The line is long.
- Evening: Walk along the Asano River. It’s quiet and romantic. Dinner at a small sushi bar.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Samurai & Ninjas
- Morning: Myoryuji (Ninja Temple). *Reservations Required by phone.* It’s not actually for ninjas, but it has hidden staircases, trap doors, and secret rooms to protect the lord. Incredible tour.
- Afternoon: Nagamachi Samurai District. Walk between the yellow earthen walls. Visit the Nomura Clan House to see how high-ranking samurai lived. The garden inside is tiny but exquisite.
- Evening: Train out. Or, if staying, visit a Kaga Yuzen studio to see silk dyeing.
Weather
Spring (March-May): Cherry blossoms at Kenrokuen are stunning (14°C).
Summer (June-Aug): Hot and sticky, but less crowded than Kyoto (27°C).
Autumn (Sept-Nov): The best season. The garden turns crimson, and the crabs arrive in November (16°C).
Winter (Dec-Feb): Heavy, wet snow. The Yukitsuri (ropes protecting trees from snow) are iconic (4°C).
Local Customs
- Umbrella Etiquette: Most hotels and shops have umbrella lockers or plastic sleeves. Use them. Do not drip water on tatami.
- Garden Rules: In Kenrokuen, stay on the path. The moss is manicured by hand.
- Sushi Manners: Don’t mix wasabi into your soy sauce (soup). Put a tiny bit on the fish if needed.
History & Culture
Kanazawa was a castle town ruled by the Maeda clan for nearly three centuries. Because it was not bombed during WWII, its architectural heritage is pristine. The city’s layout is still a defensive maze designed to confuse invading armies—lots of T-junctions and winding dead-ends that drive modern GPS crazy.
Getting Around & Safety
The Kanazawa Loop Bus is your friend. It circles all major sites.
- Walkable: The city is compact. You can walk from the castle to the 21st Century Museum in 5 minutes.
- Pass: The Hokutetsu One Day Pass (¥600) covers the loop bus.
- Taxi: Reasonable for short hops if it’s raining (which it will be).
Info for Nomads
Quiet and rainy. Good for deep focus work, but not a social hub. Cafes are excellent.
Workation Vibe
Speed: Fast. 90 Mbps.
Cafes: Curio Espresso (run by an American/Japanese couple, great community) and Hamon (overlooking the river).
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the gold leaf ice cream a scam? +
It’s a tourist gimmick, yes (gold has no flavor), but it’s the quintessential Kanazawa experience. Do it once for the photo.
How do I reserve the Ninja Temple? +
You must call them. They don’t have a website booking system. Ask your hotel concierge to call for you as soon as you arrive.
Better than Kyoto? +
Different. Less crowded, more compact, better seafood, but fewer ‘grand’ temples. It feels more livable.