Los Angeles is 88 cities searching for a center. It is a horizontal endlessness of strip malls, palm trees, and traffic. The light here is famous—a warm, hazy gold that makes everything look like a Kodachrome photo. It smells of jasmine at night, car exhaust by day, and the salty marine layer in the morning.
LA is misunderstood. People go to the Walk of Fame, see the dirty pavement, and hate it. The real LA is found in the pockets: the taco trucks in Highland Park, the Korean BBQ in K-Town, the surf culture of Malibu. It is a city of dreamers and waiters, where the guy serving your coffee is writing a screenplay. The vibe is laid-back but anxious; everyone is hustling, but they are doing it in yoga pants.
You need a car. The distance is the defining feature. Going from Santa Monica to Silver Lake is a "long distance relationship." But the diversity of food and landscape is unmatched. You can surf in the morning and hike a desert canyon in the afternoon.
To enjoy LA, lower your expectations of "sightseeing" and raise your expectations of "lifestyle." Eat a breakfast burrito, hike Runyon Canyon to see the celebrities sweating, and catch a sunset at Griffith Observatory. Don't look for the Hollywood glamour; look for the California cool.
The perfect plan for Los Angeles:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Hollywood & Heights
- Morning: Lake Hollywood Park. This is the best view of the Hollywood Sign without hiking for hours. Easy street parking.
- Afternoon: Griffith Observatory. Go inside (free) and see the Tesla coil. The view of the grid is iconic. Lunch at In-N-Out Burger (Sunset Blvd). Order a "Double-Double Animal Style."
- Evening: West Hollywood (WeHo). Drive down the Sunset Strip. Comedy Store or Laugh Factory. Dinner at Night + Market WeHo (super spicy Thai).
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Sun & Sand
- Morning: Santa Monica Pier. See the end of Route 66. Rent a bike ($20) and ride the path to Venice Beach. Watch the skaters and bodybuilders. It’s gritty and fun.
- Afternoon: Abbot Kinney Blvd. The hipster street of Venice. Expensive coffee and shops. Lunch at Gjelina (pizza/veggies) or The Butcher’s Daughter.
- Evening: Malibu. Drive PCH north. Watch sunset at El Matador State Beach (sea caves). Dinner at Malibu Seafood (shack) or Nobu (if you have $$ and a reservation).
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Art & Tacos
- Morning: LACMA (Urban Light lamps). Then visit the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures (Death Star is there).
- Afternoon: Downtown LA (DTLA). Visit The Broad (Infinity Room). See the Disney Concert Hall. Lunch at Grand Central Market. Get the Eggslut sandwich or tacos at Tacos Tumbras a Tomas.
- Evening: Arts District. Breweries and murals. Dinner at Bestia (industrial Italian) or hit a taco truck: Leo's Tacos Truck (Al Pastor spit) is legendary.
Weather
Spring (Mar-May): Green hills, blooming flowers. May can be "May Grey" (overcast at beach).
Summer (Jun-Aug): Hot inland, cool at beach. "June Gloom" means fog until noon. Aug/Sep are hottest.
Autumn (Sep-Nov): Best weather. Clear, warm, Santa Ana winds (dry/hot).
Winter (Dec-Feb): Rain season. When it rains, people forget how to drive. Cool nights.
Local Customs
1. Driving: Traffic is a law of physics here. "20 minutes" usually means 40. Plan accordingly.
2. Health: Everyone has a dietary restriction. Gluten-free/Vegan is standard. Don't judge the green juice.
3. Jaywalking: It used to be illegal, now relaxed, but LA drivers are fast. Be careful.
History & Culture
Founded in 1781 by Spanish settlers, LA remained a small ranch town until the oil boom and the arrival of the film industry in the 1910s due to the good weather. The post-war boom created the freeway culture and the suburban sprawl. It is a city of constant reinvention, from Noir detective stories to the Beach Boys to Gangsta Rap.
Getting Around & Safety
Car Rental: Mandatory. You cannot do LA efficiently without one.
Uber/Lyft: Expensive due to distances.
Metro: It exists! The Expo Line from Downtown to Santa Monica is actually great, but limited coverage elsewhere.
Info for Nomads
Workation Vibe
Fast internet. Coffee shops are offices for screenwriters.
- Verve Coffee (Melrose or Arts District): Very trendy, good wifi, great outdoor seating.
- Blue Bottle (various): Reliable, clean, good for a quick email session.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it like the movies? +
Yes and no. The light is real. The traffic is worse. Hollywood Blvd is dirty and disappointing. The magic is in the canyons and the coast, not the tourist traps.
Is it expensive? +
Yes. Gas is pricey. Valet parking is everywhere ($10-40). Food ranges from $2 tacos to $200 sushi. Budget for parking fines—signs are confusing.
Is it safe? +
Mostly, but Skid Row (DTLA) is a humanitarian crisis and dangerous. Avoid walking there. Venice Boardwalk can be sketchy at night. Stick to populated areas.