Nantes is the city where imagination runs wild. Birthplace of Jules Verne, it has embraced a steampunk, mechanical identity that sets it apart from the rest of France. It is not quite Brittany (historically yes, administratively no), and not quite the Loire Valley. It is an estuary city, where the Loire River widens before hitting the Atlantic. The vibe is creative, slightly eccentric, and very green.
The headline act is the Machines de l’île—a former shipyard turned into a fantasy playground where a 12-meter tall mechanical elephant walks the streets carrying tourists. But beyond the gears and steam, Nantes is a stately city of 18th-century shipowners’ mansions and the massive Château des Ducs de Bretagne. It has a rebellious streak; the art installation “Le Voyage à Nantes” draws a literal green line on the pavement for tourists to follow past weird statues and hidden gardens.
It smells of rain (it is close to the Atlantic), crêpes, and the Muscadet wine produced in the surrounding vineyards. It is a city that feels open, breathable, and fun.
The perfect plan for Nantes:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Elephant and the Duke
- Morning: Les Machines de l’île. Book a ride on the Grand Éléphant. It sprays water at passersby. Visit the Galerie des Machines to see the mechanical heron and spider. It is pure magic.
- Afternoon: Château des Ducs de Bretagne. Walk the ramparts (free). The museum inside is high-tech and covers the city’s history (paid).
- Evening: Dinner at La Cigale. An Art Nouveau brasserie (1895) that is a riot of ceramic and mirrors. The food is classic French.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Green Line Art Walk
- Morning: Follow the green line to the Passage Pommeraye. A glorious 19th-century shopping arcade. It’s multi-level and stunning.
- Afternoon: Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery. Located underground on the quay. It is somber, powerful, and necessary. Then take the Navibus to Trentemoult—a fishing village with brightly colored houses.
- Evening: Drinks at Le Lieu Unique. The former LU biscuit factory turned into a bar/hammam/concert venue.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Plants and Views
- Morning: Jardin des Plantes. One of the best in France. Look for the giant quirky statues (like the sleeping chick). Visit the Palm House.
- Afternoon: Musée d’Arts de Nantes. Recently renovated, excellent collection. Or go up to the Le Nid (The Nest) at the top of the Tour Bretagne (Check if open—it closes periodically for renovations).
- Evening: Crêperie dinner in the Bouffay district (medieval quarter).
Weather
Spring (May-June): Best time. Green and mild.
Summer (July-Aug): Le Voyage à Nantes festival. Art everywhere. pleasant temps (25°C).
Autumn (Sept-Oct): Can be grey and rainy.
Winter: Mild but damp. The Christmas market is good.
Local Customs
The Green Line: Follow the literal green line painted on the ground. It leads to all major sights. You don’t need a map.
Galette vs Crêpe: Galette is buckwheat (savory). Crêpe is wheat (sweet). Drink cider with them.
History & Culture
Nantes was the capital of the Duchy of Brittany. The castle in the center is where the Dukes lived. Sadly, it was also France’s largest slave-trading port in the 18th century, a history the city confronts openly at the moving Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery. It reinvented itself from a dying industrial shipbuilding hub in the 1990s into a cultural capital.
Getting Around & Safety
Tram: Nantes reintroduced the tram to France in the 80s. It’s excellent.
Navibus: River shuttle. Included in the transport pass.
Walk: The center is compact.
Info for Nomads
Great. Creative atmosphere, affordable, and the “Le Lieu Unique” is a great spot to hang out/work.
Workation Vibe
Internet: Fast.
Cafes:
1. Sugar Blue Café: Cozy, central, great coffee.
2. Kinfolk: Stylish, calm, good for working.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it in Brittany? +
Touching subject. Historically yes, culturaly yes. But politically, it is in the Pays de la Loire region. Don’t debate this with a local unless you have time.
Is the Elephant ride worth it? +
100%. It’s unique in the world. Even adults love it. Book in advance online.
Is it rainy? +
It’s similar to London or Seattle. Light drizzle is common. Bring a raincoat, not an umbrella (wind).