Nice is the grande dame of the French Riviera, but she is not a faded beauty; she is vibrant, Italian-inflected, and blindingly bright. The light here has captivated painters like Matisse for a reason—it hits the pastel ochre facades of the Old Town (Vieux Nice) and the turquoise curve of the Baie des Anges with a clarity that feels almost artificial. This is not just a resort town; it is a breathing city where laundry hangs from shutters, scooters buzz through narrow alleys, and the smell of chickpea flatbread (Socca) baking in wood-fired ovens mixes with the salty sea breeze.
Unlike the stiff glamour of Monaco or the film-set gloss of Cannes, Nice has grit and soul. It feels more Italian than French in spirit, a legacy of its Savoyard history. The Promenade des Anglais is the stage where the city parades: rollerbladers, fur-coated widows with poodles, and joggers all sharing the wide pavement under the palms. But the real heartbeat is in the markets. The Cours Saleya explodes with flowers and marzipan fruits every morning.
The beaches are pebbles, not sand—smooth, grey stones that make a distinctive clattering sound as the waves retreat. It’s uncomfortable to lie on without a mat, but the water clarity is unmatched. Nice is a sensory overload: the noon cannon shot (a tradition since the 1860s to remind a Scottish lord’s wife to come home for lunch), the neon signs of Place Masséna, and the taste of rosé at a beach club at sunset.
The perfect plan for Nice:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Italian Soul
- Morning: Cours Saleya Market. Go at 8 AM before the tourists. Smell the mimosa. Buy some fruit. Then, climb the Castle Hill (Colline du Château)—take the elevator up, walk down. The view of the bay is the postcard shot.
- Afternoon: Lunch at Chez Pipo (near the Port). It is THE place for Socca. Don’t expect fancy service; expect grease and greatness.
- Evening: Wander Vieux Nice. Get ice cream at Fenocchio (Place Rossetti)—try the olive or tomato basil flavors. Yes, really.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Art and Promenade
- Morning: Musée Matisse. Located in Cimiez (hilltop neighborhood). Walk through the olive grove gardens afterwards. It’s quiet and civilised.
- Afternoon: Promenade des Anglais. Rent a blue chair (Chaise Bleue) or walk the entire length. Stop for a drink at the Hotel Negresco bar—expensive, but the art collection inside is wild.
- Evening: Dinner at Le Plongeoir. A restaurant perched on a rock pillar in the sea. Reserve months in advance for sunset. If full, grab a pizza and sit on the pebbles.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: The Riviera escape
- Morning: Take the #100 bus (scenic route) or train to Villefranche-sur-Mer. It’s the next bay over. The water is sandy here. Visit the Cocteau Chapel.
- Afternoon: Walk the Sentier du Littoral (coastal path) around Cap Ferrat. It’s a stunning walk past billionaire villas and raw coastline.
- Evening: Back in Nice. Tapas and wine at La Cave du Cours. A local hangout that feels authentic.
Weather
Spring (April-May): Lovely. Flowers in bloom, mild days (20°C).
Summer (June-Aug): Crowded and hot (30°C). The water is perfect, but the pebble beaches are packed.
Autumn (Sept-Oct): The best season. The sea is still warm, the crowds have left.
Winter (Nov-Mar): Sunny but cool (13°C). The Mimosa festivals in Feb are yellow and cheerful.
Local Customs
The Noon Cannon: Don’t panic. At exactly 12:00 PM every day, a cannon is fired. It’s a tradition, not an attack.
Dress Code: Beachwear is for the beach. Put on a shirt when walking in the city.
Greetings: Always say “Bonjour, Madame/Monsieur” when entering a shop. It is rude not to.
History & Culture
Nice was Greek (Nikaia), then Roman (Cemenelum), then Italian (Savoy/Sardinia), and only became French in 1860. This late annexation explains why the food—pissaladière, ravioli, socca—is distinct from the rest of France. It was the original winter resort for the British aristocracy in the 19th century, who built the hotels and the famous Promenade to avoid the English fog.
Getting Around & Safety
Tram: Excellent. Line 2 connects the Airport to the Port for €1.70 (buy the card). It’s the cheapest airport transfer in Europe.
Walk: The center is compact.
Train: The TER takes you to Monaco (20 mins) or Cannes (30 mins) cheaply.
Info for Nomads
Good. It has a high quality of life, great airport connections, and a growing community of remote workers who want sun + city.
Workation Vibe
Internet: High-speed fiber is standard.
Cafes:
1. Café du Cycliste: Cool vibe, good coffee, bike themed.
2. Workhouse Cafe: Dedicated coworking/cafe hybrid.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it expensive? +
Yes and No. Accommodation and beach clubs are pricey. But street food (socca, pan bagnat) is cheap (€5), and rosé is cheaper than water in some places.
Sand or Pebbles? +
Pebbles (Galets). In Nice, the beach is grey stones. Bring “jelly shoes” if you have sensitive feet. For sand, go to Villefranche or Antibes (20 mins away).
Is it safe? +
Generally yes, but watch for pickpockets on the Tram and Promenade. Avoid the “Les Moulins” neighborhood at night (far from center).