Oviedo is a fairy tale. Woody Allen described it as “a delicious, exotic, beautiful, clean, pleasant, tranquil and pedestrianized city,” and he has a statue here to prove the love is mutual. It is the capital of Asturias, a region of emerald green hills and jagged peaks. The city is spotless—literally, they scrub the streets constantly. It smells of fresh rain, cut grass, and the sour-sweet fermentation of Sidra (cider).
This is the cradle of Christian Spain, never conquered by the Moors. The Pre-Romanesque churches on the hillside (Santa María del Naranco) are ancient stone jewels that look like they belong in a fantasy novel. The center is dignified, filled with statues (over 100) and pastry shops displaying Moscovitas and Carbayones.
But the politeness ends at the Sidrería. Here, waiters pour cider from high above their heads into a glass held at their knees, splashing the floor (sawdust soaks it up). You drink it in one gulp. It is a communal, messy, joyful ritual. The food is heavy: Fabada (bean stew) and Cachopo (two steaks sandwiched with ham and cheese, breaded and fried).
To enjoy Oviedo, walk the San Francisco park, eat a pastry, and then drive 10 minutes up the hill to see the city framed by the Picos de Europa.
The perfect plan for Oviedo:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Pre-Romanesque & Pastries
- Morning: Mount Naranco. Take a taxi/bus. Visit Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo. 9th-century palaces. The view of the city is perfect.
- Afternoon: Cathedral of San Salvador. Visit the Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber) to see the Sudarium (shroud of Jesus) and the Cross of Victory. Lunch: El Gato Negro. Cider and tapas.
- Evening: Gascona Street (Cider Boulevard). It’s lined with Sidrerías. Go to Tierra Astur. It’s touristy but fun (barrels for tables). Order a Cachopo.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Statues & Parks
- Morning: San Francisco Park. Meet the Mafalda statue. Find the Woody Allen statue near the park. Visit the Fine Arts Museum (free, excellent).
- Afternoon: Fontán Market. Rustic. Eat local cheese (Cabrales).
- Evening: Pastry hop. Go to Camilo de Blas. Buy a Carbayón.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Mining & Coast
- Morning: Day trip to seaside or mining museum.
- Afternoon: Relax in the city.
- Evening: Opera house (if open).
Weather
Summer: Mild. 22°C. Green.
Spring/Autumn: Rainy but beautiful.
Winter: Cold, damp. Snow on nearby mountains.
Local Customs
1. Cider (Sidra): Do not pour it yourself. The waiter does it (Escanciar). Drink it immediately while it froths. Leave the last dregs in the glass and dump them on the floor (in designated areas).
2. Cleanliness: It is famously clean. Don’t litter.
3. Cachopo: It is huge. Share it.
History & Culture
Founded in 761. It was the capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, the only part of Spain that resisted the Moorish invasion. King Alfonso II the Chaste built the Holy Chamber and created the first pilgrim route to Santiago (The Primitivo). This Pre-Romanesque heritage is unique in Europe.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: Very pedestrian friendly.
Bus/Taxi: Needed for Mount Naranco monuments.
Info for Nomads
Quiet, green, affordable. High quality of life. Rain is the main downside.
Workation Vibe
Good internet.
- Rialto: Classic cafe, good for reading.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Pre-Romanesque? +
Art from the 8th-9th century, before Romanesque. It only exists here. It’s simple, elegant stone arches.
Is the cider alcoholic? +
Yes, about 4-6%. It’s natural, flat (until poured), and dry. Not sweet/fizzy like English/US cider.
Is it safe? +
One of the safest cities in Spain.