Pamplona (Iruña) is famous for one week of madness (San Fermín) and 51 weeks of quiet dignity. It sits on a plateau, enclosed by perfectly preserved star-shaped fortress walls. The air is crisp and smells of the Pyrenees mountains nearby. It is a city of parks, stone, and silence, interrupted only by the clinking of wine glasses in the Casco Viejo.
Ernest Hemingway put it on the map, and his ghost is everywhere—in the Café Iruña, in the bullring, in the Hotel La Perla. But beyond the bulls, Pamplona is a capital of the Kingdom of Navarre, rich in history and gastronomy. The vegetables here (asparagus, artichokes, piquillo peppers) are legendary.
The Pintxo culture rivals San Sebastian but is cheaper and less touristy. It is a green city; the Citadel (Ciudadela) is a massive park where locals run and walk dogs in the moat. To enjoy Pamplona off-season is a secret pleasure: you get the cobblestones, the food, and the walls to yourself.
The perfect plan for Pamplona:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Bull Run & Hemingway
- Morning: Walk the Encierro Route (Bull Run). Start at Santo Domingo, up Estafeta Street to the Bullring. It looks narrower in real life.
- Afternoon: Café Iruña. Have a coffee in the corner where Hemingway sat (statue is there). It’s beautiful Art Nouveau. Lunch: Bar Gaucho. Order the Foie pintxo.
- Evening: Plaza del Castillo. The living room of the city. Dinner at Rodero (High end) or pintxos on Calle San Nicolás.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Walls & Fortresses
- Morning: The Citadel (Ciudadela). Walk inside the star-shaped fort. It’s a park now. See the deer in the moat.
- Afternoon: Cathedral of Santa María. The facade is Neoclassical, but the interior is Gothic. The cloister is stunning. Visit the Occidens exhibition.
- Evening: Walk the City Walls (Murallas) near the Portal de Francia. Watch the sunset over the river Arga.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Navarre Food
- Morning: Mercado de Santo Domingo. Buy Chistorra (sausage).
- Afternoon: Museum of Navarre. Roman mosaics.
- Evening: Dinner: La Mandarra de la Ramos. Try the Fried Eggs with Chistorra.
Weather
July 6-14: San Fermín. Total chaos. expensive. Bucket list or nightmare depending on you.
Spring/Autumn: Perfect. Green, cool.
Winter: Cold, fog.
Local Customs
1. San Fermín: If you run, you risk death. If you watch, rent a balcony ($$$). Wear all white with a red scarf.
2. Thursday Juevintxo: On Thursdays, pintxos and wine are discounted in the old town.
3. Hemingway: Don’t just follow the tourist trail; the man drank everywhere.
History & Culture
Founded by Pompey the Great (Roman) in 74 BC. Capital of the Kingdom of Navarre. It was a strategic fortress city near the French border, hence the massive walls built in the 16th century. San Fermín festival gained global fame after Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises” (1926).
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: It is small and enclosed by walls.
Bus: Efficient.
Info for Nomads
Quiet, high quality of life. Good for deep work.
Workation Vibe
Good wifi.
- Coffing: Specialty coffee, cakes, good tables.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it worth visiting outside July? +
Yes! It is better. No crowds, great food, peaceful parks.
Is it safe? +
Yes. During San Fermin, pickpocketing and sexual harassment can be issues (police are cracking down hard), but off-season it is very safe.
What is Chistorra? +
A thin, red, semi-cured sausage from Navarre. Fried and served with eggs or bread. Delicious.