Santander is the bride of the sea. It is elegant, poised, and spectacularly beautiful, sitting on one of the prettiest bays in the world (the only bay in the Most Beautiful Bays club in northern Spain). It smells of salt spray, manicured hydrangeas, and expensive perfume. This was the summer retreat of the Spanish Royal Family, and the vibe remains aristocratic.
Unlike the industrial grit of nearby Bilbao or Gijón, Santander feels manicured. The Paseo de Pereda is lined with Belle Époque buildings that survived the Great Fire of 1941. The light here is pearlescent, bouncing off the south-facing bay. The locals (“Santanderinos”) are known for being well-dressed and slightly conservative.
But there is a modern pulse too. The Centro Botín, designed by Renzo Piano, hangs over the water like a split spaceship, bringing world-class art to the waterfront. The food is focused on the sea: Rabas (fried squid) are a religion here. They must be fresh, lightly battered, and eaten with a vermouth on a Sunday morning.
To enjoy Santander, take the boat across the bay to the sand spit of Puntal. Look back at the city, the palace, and the mountains behind. It is a view that explains why kings chose this spot.
The perfect plan for Santander:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Royals & squids
- Morning: Magdalena Palace. It sits on a peninsula. Walk the grounds (free). See the seals and penguins in the mini-zoo (it’s a bit sad, but historic). The views of the cliffs are stunning.
- Afternoon: El Sardinero. The grand beach. Walk the promenade. Lunch at a terrace. Eat Rabas.
- Evening: Centro Botín. Go to the rooftop (free elevator) for the sunset view over the bay. Dinner at Cañadío (Plaza Cañadío). The cheesecake is award-winning.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Bay & Fire
- Morning: Take the Ferry to Somo. Walk on the immense sand dunes. Surfers paradise. Take the boat back.
- Afternoon: Cathedral. See the bottom church (Church of the Christ)—it survived the fire. It’s ancient and crypt-like.
- Evening: Río de la Pila. Take the funicular up for the view. Then go down to the street for drinks. It’s the nightlife street.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Lighthouse
- Morning: Walk to Cabo Mayor Lighthouse. It’s a coastal hike from Sardinero. Dramatic cliffs.
- Afternoon: Lunch at La Mulata (Seafood).
- Evening: Ice cream at Regma. Try the Jaspe flavor.
Weather
Summer (Jul-Aug): The peak season. 25°C. The city is full of Madrid locals escaping the heat.
Spring/Autumn: Mild and green. 18°C.
Winter: Rainy and windy, but the waves are dramatic.
Local Customs
1. Rabas: Fried squid rings. It is the typical aperitivo. The best ones are usually in the simplest bars.
2. Dress Code: People dress up to go for a walk. No shirtless walking in the city center.
3. Ice Cream: Regma ice creams are famous for being enormous. You cannot finish one quickly enough before it melts.
History & Culture
A Roman port (Portus Victoriae). It became a major trading hub with the Americas. In 1941, a massive fire destroyed the medieval center, which is why the old town is small, but the 19th-century expansion remains. King Alfonso XIII built the Magdalena Palace here in 1912, cementing its status as a luxury resort.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The waterfront is long but flat. The city behind it is hilly (use the free funicular of Río de la Pila).
Boat (Los Reginas): Ferries across the bay to Somo/Pedreña are cheap and essential.
Info for Nomads
Very pleasant, safe, and clean. Good for those who like a quiet, upscale life. Surf scene is a bonus.
Workation Vibe
Good internet.
- Wabi Sabi: Nice aesthetics, good coffee/food.
- Gallofa & Co: Bakery chain, reliable wifi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the water cold? +
Yes. It is the Atlantic (Cantabrian Sea). It is refreshing/freezing depending on your tolerance.
Is it expensive? +
Moderate. Cheaper than San Sebastian, more expensive than Gijón.
Is it hilly? +
Yes. The waterfront is flat, but the city climbs steeply. Use the escalators and funiculars installed in the streets.