Segovia is a visual punch in the face. You arrive, and there it is: a Roman Aqueduct so massive and perfect it looks like CGI. It cuts through the city center, held together by physics alone (no mortar) for 2,000 years. The city sits on a rock shaped like a ship; the Aqueduct is the anchor, the Cathedral is the mast, and the Alcázar is the prow.
It smells of wood smoke and roasting meat. Segovia is the capital of Cochinillo (suckling pig). The ritual is visceral: the pig is roasted until the skin is like glass, then carved with a dinner plate to prove its tenderness. The plate is then smashed on the floor. It is medieval theatre.
The light is sharp highland light (Segovia is 1000m up). It gets cold. The Alcázar, with its blue slate turrets, was a literal inspiration for Walt Disney’s Cinderella castle. It feels magical, slightly stark, and deeply Castilian.
To enjoy Segovia, walk under the aqueduct arches to feel small. And wear a coat.
The perfect plan for Segovia:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Stone Ship
- Morning: The Aqueduct. Start at Plaza del Azoguejo. Climb the stairs to the Postigo del Consuelo for the view from the top of the arches.
- Afternoon: The Cathedral. “The Lady of Cathedrals.” It is elegant and late Gothic. Lunch: José María. The best Cochinillo in town. It melts in your mouth.
- Evening: Alcázar of Segovia. The castle. Climb the Tower of Juan II (spiral staircase, 152 steps) for the view of the meseta. Dinner: Restaurante California (Tapas) if you are still full from lunch.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Views & Valleys
- Morning: Walk down to the Pradera de San Marcos. This is the grassy field below the Alcázar. It is the photo spot (castle on the cliff).
- Afternoon: Royal Mint (Casa de la Moneda). Industrial history. Walk along the river Eresma.
- Evening: Sunset at the Aqueduct. The stone turns golden orange. Drink a wine at a terrace in Plaza Mayor.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: La Granja
- Morning: Bus/Taxi to La Granja de San Ildefonso (15 mins). The “Versailles of Spain.” Summer palace with massive fountains.
- Afternoon: Walk the gardens. Visit the Glass Factory.
- Evening: Return to Segovia.
Weather
Spring/Autumn: Best times. 15-20°C. Crisp air.
Summer: Hot days, cool nights. Much better than Madrid.
Winter: Cold. Snow is common. The castle looks amazing in snow.
Local Customs
1. Cochinillo: It is not a light meal. It is rich. Book a restaurant (Mesón de Cándido or José María) in advance.
2. Ponche Segoviano: The local dessert. Marzipan and cream cake. Very sweet.
3. Walking: It is hilly. The walk from the Aqueduct to the Alcázar is uphill.
History & Culture
A Celtic settlement taken by Rome. The Aqueduct (1st century AD) brought water 15km from the mountains. It was a favorite residence of the Kings of Castile. Isabella the Catholic was crowned Queen here in 1474 (in the Plaza Mayor church). The Alcázar served as a fortress, palace, and prison.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: The city is small. Walk.
Bus: Bus 11 takes you from the AVant train station (out of town) to the Aqueduct.
Train: 27 mins from Madrid (Chamartin). Fast.
Info for Nomads
Quiet. Good for a writer looking for inspiration. Not a social hub.
Workation Vibe
Limón y Menta: Great bakery/cafe with the best Ponche Segoviano.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the pig the only thing to eat? +
It’s the main thing. But Judiones de La Granja (giant butter beans with chorizo) are also famous and delicious.
Is it wheelchair accessible? +
Partially. The main street (Calle Real) is pedestrian but cobbled. The Aqueduct plaza is flat. The tower climbs are not accessible.
How do I get there? +
High-speed train (AVANT) from Madrid Chamartin takes 27 mins. Book ahead.