Surabaya is the tough, chain-smoking older brother to Jakarta. It doesn’t care if you like it. As Indonesia’s second-largest city and major port, it is industrial, hot, and gritty. There are few tourists here; most foreigners are engineers or sailors. But this lack of tourism is its charm. The people (Arek Suroboyo) are famously direct, loud, and honest—a stark contrast to the polite ambiguity of Central Java.
This is the “City of Heroes” (Kota Pahlawan), where the battle for independence began. Statues of fighters screaming into the void dot the roundabouts. The city smells of clove cigarettes, diesel, and salty sea air. It is a city of malls and markets, where gleaming skyscrapers rise next to Dutch colonial decay.
Surabaya is primarily a gateway—to Mount Bromo, to Bali, to Malang. But if you stop, you find incredible food (spicier and punchier than Jakarta), fascinating Arab and Chinese quarters that have blended for centuries, and a city that works hard and plays hard. It is green, surprisingly clean (the mayor is a legend), and fiercely proud.
The perfect plan for Surabaya:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Tobacco and Heroes
- Morning: House of Sampoerna. A tobacco museum in a Dutch colonial orphanage. Watch hundreds of women hand-rolling Dji Sam Soe cigarettes at lightning speed through a glass window. It is mesmerizing. (Check if open, sometimes closes for renovation).
- Afternoon: Heroes Monument (Tugu Pahlawan). Visit the museum underneath the spike. Then, walk through the Red Bridge (Jembatan Merah) area to see the old Dutch offices.
- Evening: Rawon Setan. “Satan’s Beef Soup.” It’s pitch black (from Kluwek nut) and spicy. Opened only at night originally (hence the name). an institution.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Arab Quarter
- Morning: Ampel Mosque. The heart of the Arab quarter. Walk through the Souk (market) leading to the mosque. It smells of dates, perfume, and roasting goat. It feels like the Middle East.
- Afternoon: Kenjeran Park. Visit the massive Sanggar Agung Temple by the sea with its giant Guan Yin statue. It’s kitschy but cool.
- Evening: G-Walk in CitraLand. A massive food street in a wealthy suburb. It’s modern, clean, and has every type of food imaginable.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: The Bromo Run
- Morning: Most people use Day 3 to depart for Mount Bromo. It’s a 3-4 hour drive. Hack: Leave Surabaya at 11 PM on Day 2 to arrive at Bromo for sunrise on Day 3.
- Alternative (In City): Submarine Monument (Monkasel). A real Soviet submarine parked in the middle of the city. You can climb inside.
- Evening: Zangrandi Ice Cream. An original Dutch-era ice cream parlor. The chairs are rattan, the decor is 1930s, and the Tutti Frutti hasn’t changed in 80 years.
Weather
Dry Season (May-Oct): Blisteringly hot. 34°C is normal. Dry heat.
Wet Season (Nov-April): Heavy rains, but less flooding than Jakarta due to better drainage.
Local Customs
Directness: Surabayans speak loudly and directly. It’s not rudeness; it’s friendship. Don’t be offended.
Safety: Generally safer than Jakarta, but keep an eye on belongings in markets.
History & Culture
Surabaya has been a trading hub since the Majapahit Empire. But its defining moment was November 10, 1945, when locals armed with bamboo spears fought British forces, galvanizing international support for Indonesian independence. This fighting spirit defines the city’s DNA.
Getting Around & Safety
Grab/Gojek: The only way. Public transport exists (Suroboyo Bus) where you can pay with plastic bottles, but it’s hard to navigate.
Traffic: Bad, but moves faster than Jakarta.
Info for Nomads
Good for focused work. It’s not a “lifestyle” destination, but the infrastructure is solid and cost of living is low.
Workation Vibe
Internet: Fast (50+ Mbps).
Cafes:
1. Calibre Coffee Roasters: Near Grand City, great industrial design.
2. Libreria Eatery: Book-themed cafe, quiet, near the university.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it worth staying? +
For 1-2 days, yes. It’s a great insight into “real” working Indonesia without the tourism veneer. But most use it as a transit point.
How to get to Bromo? +
Book a “Midnight Tour” from Surabaya. Pickup at midnight, drive 3 hours to Bromo, Jeep tour for sunrise, hike the crater, back in Surabaya by 1 PM. Exhausting but efficient.
Is it safe for pedestrians? +
Not really. Sidewalks are often blocked or non-existent. Stick to Grab cars.