Teruel is the city that almost doesn’t exist. The local slogan is literally “Teruel Existe” (Teruel Exists), a plea against its isolation and depopulation. But this isolation has preserved a gem. The city is the capital of Mudéjar art—a stunning blend of Islamic brickwork and Christian architecture that looks like lace made of clay and ceramic glaze.
It smells of cured ham. Jamón de Teruel is the first D.O. ham in Spain, less fatty than Ibérico but intensely flavorful. The city is also the setting for the “Lovers of Teruel” (Los Amantes), a tragic true story that rivals Romeo and Juliet, but with actual mummies you can visit.
The vibe is quiet, humble, and deeply romantic. It sits high on a hill, cold in winter and baked in summer. Dinosaurs roamed here (Dinópolis is a huge paleontology park), and modern life feels pleasantly slow. To enjoy Teruel, look up at the towers. The green and white tiles glitter in the sun, a reminder of a time when cultures merged to create beauty.
The perfect plan for Teruel:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: Love & Brick
- Morning: Plaza del Torico. Find the tiny bull statue. Admire the modernist houses. Visit the Mausoleum of the Lovers. See the mummies holding hands (but not touching).
- Afternoon: Mudéjar Towers. Climb the Torre de El Salvador. The intricate brick and tile work is UNESCO listed. Lunch: Yain. Good local wine and food.
- Evening: Escalinata. The Neo-Mudéjar staircase. Beautiful at night. Tapas in the center.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Dinosaurs & Aqueducts
- Morning: Dinópolis. If you like dinosaurs, this is world-class. If not, walk the Los Arcos Aqueduct.
- Afternoon: San Pedro Church. incredible interior.
- Evening: Eat Jamón de Teruel at a specialized shop.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Albarracín (Day Trip)
- Morning: Drive to Albarracín (30 mins). Often voted the most beautiful village in Spain. Red stone houses, ancient walls. Stunning.
Weather
Spring: Lovely. 20°C.
Summer: Hot. The sun is strong at altitude.
Winter: Famous for being the coldest city in Spain. -10°C is possible.
Local Customs
1. The Mummies: You can see the actual mummies of the Lovers. It is macabre but romantic.
2. Ham: Eat it on toast with tomato (Delicias de Teruel).
3. Torico: The symbol of the city is a tiny bull (Torico) on top of a fountain. It is very small. Don’t mock it.
History & Culture
Founded by Alfonso II in 1171. It has a unique Mudéjar heritage because the Moorish population stayed and worked for Christian rulers, creating the signature brick towers. It was the scene of one of the bloodiest battles of the Spanish Civil War (1937-38), which destroyed much of the city, though the towers survived.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: Small center.
Train: Connection is notoriously bad/slow. Bus or Car is better.
Info for Nomads
Very cheap, quiet, isolated. Internet is okay.
Workation Vibe
Good wifi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is it famous? +
For the Lovers (Amantes) and the Mudéjar art. And for being “forgotten” by the government (bad trains).
Is it worth the trip? +
Yes, if combined with Albarracín. It is unique.
What is Mudéjar? +
Architecture built by Muslims living under Christian rule. Brick, wood, ceramics, intricate geometry.