Valencia is the smell of gunpowder and orange blossoms. It is a city that lives entirely outdoors, bathed in a brilliant Mediterranean light that makes the futuristic white curves of the City of Arts and Sciences blindingly bright. It is the home of Paella, but calling it “rice” is an insult; here, rice is a religion, cooked in wide, flat pans over wood fires until the bottom burns into a crunchy, caramelized layer called socarrat.
The vibe is relaxed but fiery. This is the city of Las Fallas, a festival where they spend a year building massive artistic monuments only to burn them to the ground in a single night of pyromaniac glory. This spirit of creation and destruction permeates the city. It feels newer and cleaner than Madrid or Barcelona, largely due to the Turia Gardens—a dry riverbed turned into a 9km long ribbon of park that cuts through the city center.
Valencians are loud, friendly, and obsessed with firecrackers. The noise level can be high, especially in March. The aesthetic shifts from the Gothic silk exchange to the space-age buildings of Calatrava without missing a beat. It is a city that figured out the work-life balance long ago: work hard, but never miss the mid-morning snack (almuerzo).
To enjoy Valencia, rent a bike. The terrain is flat, and riding through the Turia to the beach is one of the great urban joys of Europe. And never, ever ask for “Paella with chorizo.”
The perfect plan for Valencia:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Holy Grail & The Market
- Morning: Central Market (Mercado Central). Go at 9 AM. The architecture is Art Nouveau cathedral style. Buy fresh juice and Jamón. Watch the eel stall.
- Afternoon: The Cathedral. It claims to have the actual Holy Grail. Climb the Miguelete Tower for the view. Lunch at El Trocito del Medio nearby for a traditional Almuerzo.
- Evening: Barrio del Carmen. The old town. Graffiti and crumbling mansions. Drink Agua de Valencia (OJ, Cava, Gin, Vodka) at Café de las Horas. It’s baroque and kitschy.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: The Future & The River
- Morning: Rent a bike. Ride the Turia Gardens. It’s a sunken park. Stop at Gulliver Park (a giant sculpture you can slide on).
- Afternoon: City of Arts and Sciences. Hack: Don’t pay for the Science Museum (it’s for kids). Just walk around the pools and admire the alien architecture. Maybe do the Oceanogràfic (aquarium) if you like fish.
- Evening: Sunset on the L’Assut de l’Or Bridge. Dinner at Vertical (expensive view) or head back to Ruzafa neighborhood for tapas at La Tasqueta del Mercat.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Rice & Beach
- Morning: Albufera Lake. Take the bus (25) south. Take a boat ride on the lake where rice is grown. It’s tranquil.
- Afternoon: El Palmar village. This is the birthplace of Paella. Lunch at Bon Aire or Nou Racó. Order Paella Valenciana. You must pre-order the rice usually.
- Evening: Malvarrosa Beach. Walk the promenade. Have a Horchata (tiger nut milk) and Fartons (pastry) at Horchatería Daniel (in Alboraya, just north of the beach).
Weather
Spring (Mar-May): Las Fallas is in March (insane noise/crowds). May is perfect. 22°C.
Summer (Jul-Aug): Hot and humid, but the beach is right there.
Autumn (Sep-Nov): Warm sea, potential for heavy rains (“Gota Fría”).
Winter (Dec-Feb): Mild and sunny (15°C). Oranges are in season.
Local Customs
1. Paella Rules: Paella is for lunch, rarely dinner. Authentic Paella Valenciana has chicken, rabbit, and beans—no seafood. Seafood rice is “Arroz a Banda.”
2. Almuerzo: This is a sacred mid-morning meal (10-11 AM). A baguette sandwich, peanuts, olives, and a beer. Do not skip it.
3. Siesta: Shops really do close from 2 PM to 5 PM. Don’t try to shop then.
History & Culture
Founded by the Romans as Valentia in 138 BC, it was later a Moorish agricultural hub (they introduced the irrigation systems and rice). El Cid fought here. The defining modern moment was the Great Flood of 1957, which killed many. In response, the city diverted the Turia river and turned the dry bed into a massive park, changing the city’s geography forever. In the 90s, Santiago Calatrava (a local architect) put it on the global map with his sci-fi buildings.
Getting Around & Safety
Bikes (Valenbisi): The best way. The city is flat and has the Turia park highway.
Metro: Good for getting from the airport and to the beach.
Bus (EMT): Covers the areas the metro misses.
Info for Nomads
Valencia is currently the #1 digital nomad hub in Spain. The quality of life is high, rent is manageable, and the expat community is massive (Ruzafa area).
Workation Vibe
Internet is blazing fast. Cafes are welcoming.
- Bluebell Coffee (Ruzafa): The OG specialty coffee spot. Tiny courtyard, great wifi.
- Federal Café: Big tables, very popular with laptop workers.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Las Fallas? +
It is a festival (March 15-19) where 800+ statues are burnt. It involves 24/7 explosions (“Mascletà”). If you hate noise, avoid Valencia in March. If you love chaos, it’s the best party on earth.
Is it cheaper than Barcelona? +
Yes, significantly. Rent and food are 20-30% cheaper. You can get a good menu del dia for €10-12.
Can I swim in the sea? +
Yes, the city beach (Malvarrosa) is huge and sandy. It’s clean enough, though locals prefer driving south to El Saler for wilder, cleaner dunes.