Vitoria-Gasteiz is the discreet capital of the Basque Country. It doesn’t have the beach of San Sebastian or the Guggenheim of Bilbao, but it has the highest quality of life. It is the “European Green Capital,” a city surrounded by a Green Belt of parks where nature touches the medieval center. It smells of damp earth, cut grass, and the savory aroma of Perretxikos (wild mushrooms).
The old town (La Almendra) is shaped like an almond on a hill. It is dense, vertical, and full of history (Ken Follett was inspired by the Cathedral here). The streets are named after medieval guilds (Cutlery, Shoemakers). Vitoria is cleaner, quieter, and arguably has better *Pintxos* (for the price) than its famous neighbors.
It is the city of playing cards (Fournier). It loves Jazz (the July festival is world-class). To enjoy Vitoria, take the outdoor escalators up to the old town, eat a Gilda (pintxo), and cycle the Green Belt.
The perfect plan for Vitoria-Gasteiz:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Almond & The Cathedral
- Morning: Cathedral of Santa Maria. “Open for Works.” You wear a hard hat and see the foundations. It inspired World Without End.
- Afternoon: The Almond (Old Town). Walk Calle Cuchillería. See the Fournier Playing Card Museum (in a palace). It’s unique. Lunch: El Portalón. 15th-century inn.
- Evening: Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. See the “Green” sculpture. Pintxos at Sagartoki (Award winning tortilla and fried egg pintxo).
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Green Belt & Art
- Morning: Rent a bike. Ride the Green Belt (Anillo Verde). Visit Salburua Park to see deer and storks.
- Afternoon: Artium Museum. Contemporary Basque art.
- Evening: Jazz club or drink in Plaza de España.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Mural Tour
- Morning: Vitoria has the “Painted Itinerary” (IMVG). Huge murals on old building facades. Walk the route.
Weather
July: Jazz Festival. Great vibe. Warm.
Summer: Pleasant, never too hot.
Winter: Cold and foggy. It’s inland.
Local Customs
1. Escalators: The old town is on a hill. Use the “Mechanical Ramps” to go up. Don’t walk unless you want exercise.
2. Pintxo Pote: Thursday/Friday evenings. Cheap drink + pintxo deal in many bars.
3. Silence: It is a quiet city. People speak softly.
History & Culture
Founded in 1181 by Sancho VI on a hill (Gasteiz). It was a strategic fortress. The Battle of Vitoria (1813) saw Wellington defeat Napoleon’s army (Beethoven wrote a symphony about it). It became the administrative capital of the Basque Country in 1980.
Getting Around & Safety
Tram: Green and efficient.
Bikes: Excellent bike lanes. Flat (except the hill).
Info for Nomads
Very high quality of life. Green, clean, efficient. Great for families/couples.
Workation Vibe
Good wifi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it boring? +
No, it’s cultured. It doesn’t have the “wow” of Bilbao, but it’s very livable.
How is the food? +
Incredible. It was the Spanish Capital of Gastronomy. Try the Truffled Egg.
Is it safe? +
One of the safest in Europe.