Zaragoza is the forgotten giant of Spain. Located halfway between Madrid and Barcelona, it is often skipped, which is a mistake. It is a city defined by the Ebro River and the Cierzo—a biting, relentless wind that clears the sky and drives people into the cozy bars of “El Tubo.” The sensory centerpiece is the Basilica del Pilar, a tiled behemoth that reflects in the river. It smells of incense inside and roasting lamb (Ternasco) outside.
This is the city of Goya. It is noble, stubborn (“maño” stubbornness is legendary), and authentically Spanish. You won’t find many tourist traps here. The tapas scene is incredible and cheaper than San Sebastian. The streets are wide, filled with Roman ruins, Moorish palaces, and Baroque churches sitting side by side.
Zaragoza feels livable. It’s a university city with a buzzing nightlife. It doesn’t perform for tourists; it just exists. The pace is relaxed. To enjoy it, you must walk the Plaza del Pilar (one of the largest pedestrian squares in Europe) at sunset and watch the swallows dive around the towers.
Don’t just look at the Basilica; go inside and see the tiny Virgin statue on the pillar. And prepare your hair for the wind.
The perfect plan for Zaragoza:
Day 1 Agenda
Theme: The Virgin & The Romans
- Morning: Basilica del Pilar. It is huge. Hack: Pay €3 to take the elevator up the tower (Torre San Francisco). The view of the colored tiles and the river is spectacular.
- Afternoon: La Seo Cathedral. It’s right next door but nicer inside (tapestry museum). See the Roman Wall ruins outside. Lunch at Casa Pedro.
- Evening: El Tubo. The tapas zone. Narrow alleys. Go to Bodegas Almau (anchovies) and La Champanería (mushrooms). It gets packed.
Day 2 Agenda
Theme: Moorish Palace & Goya
- Morning: Aljafería Palace. Must see. It is the best Moorish palace outside Andalusia. It’s a mini-Alhambra and also houses the regional parliament.
- Afternoon: Goya Museum. See the etchings. He was born nearby. Lunch: Try Ternasco de Aragón (roast lamb) at Palomeque.
- Evening: Walk across the Puente de Piedra (Stone Bridge) for the iconic photo of the Basilica reflected in the water. Dinner at Contigo Pan y Cebolla.
Day 3 Agenda
Theme: Modern Expo & River
- Morning: Expo 2008 Zone. Architecture buffs. See the Water Tower and Bridge Pavilion (Zaha Hadid). It’s a bit desolate but cool.
- Afternoon: River Aquarium. Largest river aquarium in Europe.
- Evening: Back to the center. Drinks at El Plata (Cabaret bar) if you want something unique and traditional.
Weather
Spring (Apr-Jun): Lovely. 20°C.
Summer (Jul-Aug): Brutal. The Ebro valley traps heat. 40°C is common.
Autumn (Sep-Nov): The Fiestas del Pilar (Oct 12) are massive. Best time to visit.
Winter (Dec-Feb): Cold, foggy, and windy. The Cierzo cuts through you.
Local Customs
1. Kiss the Pillar: Inside the Basilica, there is a hole in the wall to kiss the jasper pillar. It’s a local ritual.
2. Free Tapas? No, unlike Granada/Madrid, you pay for tapas here, but they are high quality.
3. The Wind: If the Cierzo blows, it can give you a headache. Bring a hat/scarf even in mild weather.
History & Culture
Founded as Caesaraugusta by Rome in 14 BC (the name evolved to Zaragoza). It was a major Moorish kingdom (Saraqusta) before being reconquered by Aragon. It is famous for the Siege of Zaragoza (1808) against Napoleon, where the citizens fought fiercely. This history of resistance defines the local character.
Getting Around & Safety
Walking: Everything is around the Plaza del Pilar.
Tram: One line. Clean and useful.
Bus: Good network.
Info for Nomads
Not a major nomad hub, but very livable. Cheap rent, good food, but fewer English speakers.
Workation Vibe
Decent wifi. Cafes are traditional.
- Doña Hipólita: Beautiful cafe in an old cloth shop. Great atmosphere for reading/working.
- Botánico: Modern, good coffee.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it worth stopping? +
Absolutely. It breaks the AVE train journey between Madrid and Barcelona perfectly. Spend 24 hours here.
Is it expensive? +
No. It is cheaper than Madrid and Barcelona. Tapas are €2-3.
Is the water safe? +
Yes, tap water is safe.